Friday, March 31...Bicycle Built for Two

Woke up with the alarm because it’s moving day again.  Leaving Marathon and heading east. I didn’t take a shower last night so I went to bed looking like I spent 260 miles with a helmet on my head.  So when I looked in the mirror this morning, my thoughts went a couple of different ways.  I choose to stay with ‘Yay! I made it to 58…celebrate!’  Hard to reconcile the reality that I’m in my late 50’s with the child inside who still thinks I’m in my early 20’s.
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Heading toward Uvalde, TX, hoping that the campground I left a message with returns my call and tells me they have availability for tonight.  Otherwise, onto Plan B, which will be made up as we travel along.  **Park Chalk Bluff did return my call and we have a spot reserved for tonight.**
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As we traveled east on Hwy 90, I was hoping that we’d see the bicycle tour group from the other day.  Figured that a 60 miles day would have put them in Sanderson last night.  Then today they’d be on their way to Langtry which is 57 miles from Sanderson.  Although I didn’t see anywhere to camp in Langtry…but that’s their problem, not mine, right? J  Anyway, we passed them strung out along about a 10 mile stretch of the highway.  The other morning we were talking to two ladies that were riding a tandem bike...saw them today at the top of a hill…they were off the bike taking pictures of the view. And I won’t lie, riding up those hills in this heat didn’t look like a good time to me, even with two providing the power.  I prefer a motor attached to my bike.  I don’t expect we’ll see them again on this trip because we drove about 230 miles east of Marathon….it would take them 4 days to get this far.  Don’t plan on being here that long…although our plans are always subject to change.
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Sitting at a gas station, using the computer and I had the door open to let the heat out and the breeze in.  When my mouse decided to fall out of the truck, I had to go after it…so I moved everything on my lap to the console, where it perched precariously.  Grabbed the mouse from under the truck and jumped back in my seat, only to find that the camera had fallen there.  I let out a yell and maybe swore as I rode out the pain...then checked to see if the camera still works…it does.  And it feels like it’s gonna leave a mark.
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Driving along Hwy 90 this morning, we noticed that there was a dirt road parallel to the highway.  I thought it was a ranch road because we were definitely in ranch country.  Then I noticed that every so often there a set of 3 big tractor tires chained together.  Kim thought maybe a way to block the road from being used…but that didn’t explain the extra length of chain coming off one of the tires, which would make it easier to pull for whatever reason.  Kim then told me about a trick bear hunters up in the U.P. would use:  in the evening, they would drag the camp roads in an area so in the morning they could tell if what size bear, if any, had walked across it.  This road continued next to 90 as much as the landscape would allow.  Then we saw a Border Patrol truck coming at us…and it was dragging a set of the 3 tires.  Which then begged the question if the Border Patrol is employing the same tactics as the bear hunters, except they’d be looking for human footprints in the sand.  Hmmmm….
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Made it to the campground and the setting is very picturesque and secluded.  It’s on the banks of the Nueces River near the town of Uvalde.  It’s about ¾ mile back off Hwy 55 and we were told that if we go back down the ‘driveway’ until we’re past the yellow pole we might be able to pick up a Verizon signal.  No wi-fi available.  This is will be interesting…no technology at camp.   We’ll be in withdrawal, for sure.  But we have water and electricity…we’re near the bathrooms/showers…I have books and a couple of moives I can watch on my computer.  Life ain’t so bad.  I’ll keep writing in my journal but in light of the technology blackout, who knows when it’ll get posted to the blog. 

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Thursday, March 30...Crazy Train!

Woke up to 45o, but sunny.  We were supposed to be leaving today but Kim really wanted to try imaging tonight.  The last two nights have been no go because of the wind.  Although there was a slight wind expected today, it was supposed to die down around nightfall.  So we extended our stay another night…there are plenty of roads we haven’t explored and hopefully, Kim will get to take pictures of the heavens tonight.  Besides we woke up at 8:30 a.m. and were supposed to be out of here by 11.  Seemed like too much hustle, so another night works on several levels. 
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Some days ago, I saw a horse that didn’t look right.  It looked horsey enough but there was something different about it.  Of course, we were cruising by at 55 mph, so my glimpse may not have been spot on…and it really wasn’t something worth turning around for.  But it did spark another topic of conversation: the difference between a mule, burro and donkey.  And we were in the mountains without any signal so my search had to be put on hold. When I got a signal I did some research but it was on my phone and I just forgot about it when I got back to camp.  Today I got back to it... first off, there are a lot of sites addressing this issue, some which get very technical.  Who knew, right?  I wanted something basic and on the site animals.mom.me I found a simple answer to my question: 
If you are shopping for a new equine companion but do not want a horse, you may want to consider a donkey or a mule. Donkeys and mules are confused for one another by individuals who do not understand what makes a donkey a donkey and a mule a mule.
The Donkey
Donkeys, also known as burros, are asses, not horses. They are shorter and generally hardier than horses. Donkeys have been used for transporting people and goods since biblical times. While donkeys have a reputation for being stubborn, they are also notoriously smart and capable of keeping themselves and their passengers away from danger.
The Mule
Mules on a farm near Marfa, TX
A mule is produced when you breed a male donkey to a female horse, also known as a mare. A "hinny," meanwhile, is produced when you breed a stallion, or male horse, to a female donkey. Mules possess characteristics of both of their parents but are typically sterile and unable to reproduce. You cannot breed a mule to get a mule. You have to breed a horse to a donkey to get a mule.
I did some more research today because I was certain I saw a mule as we were out riding. We turned around so I could get a better look and take a picture just to be safe.  Kim agreed with me that we were looking at two mules.  Each looked like a horse but with ever so slightly longer ears and their coats weren’t sleek like a horse’s…it was coarser looking like a donkey’s.
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This park has wi-fi throughout the camp but the best signal is up at the café.  It doesn’t seem to be a functional café but there is outside seating, it’s protected from the wind, has lights at night and yes, it has the best signal.  This morning I went there to post some pictures on Facebook and encountered about 20 bicyclists in various stages of taking down their tents and getting ready to hit the road.  It was a tour group…the chase vehicle proclaimed Adventure Cycling on the side so I’m guessing that’s who the tour was through.  We talked to a couple of riders and found out they’re planning to ride from San Diego, CA, to St. Augustine, FL, in 59 days.  They’ve been averaging 63 miles a day; however, one day they rode 92 and all agreed that was too much!  Because camping reservations have been made in advance, they have a goal for that day…if they arrive early, that’s just a little more time to rest up for the next day’s ride.  Most of the people I saw were middle aged and older.  One gentleman said that he’s too old to worry about packing all necessary equipment on his bike…it’s easier to pay to join a tour group and have the chase vehicle carry all the equipment.  It was interesting to watch the preparations that they went through…and they left at all different times.  When they were ready to go, they went.  Maybe we’ll see them again somewhere in our travels since we’re heading in the same direction across Texas when we leave. 
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We had a late breakfast today and were waiting for the temperature to rise a little bit, so we didn’t get out on the bikes until about noon. Figured out a route that would take us west to Marfa, then north to Fort Davis. Then the plan was to head south back to Alpine. But as so often happens with a Kim n Karen adventure, our plans changed. First, we hadn’t intended to eat lunch because of the late breakfast but because I had to go to the bathroom, we found ourselves in a wonderful smelling café and since it’s our policy to pay for a flush, we found ourselves sitting at a table and ordering a late lunch. Second, I had hoped to find a Walgreen’s in Fort Davis because we wanted to print some pictures. Well, Fort Davis is quaint but Walgreen’s hasn’t discovered it yet. In fact the closest Walgreen’s is about 250 miles away, so we looked at our options…there was a Wal-Mart in Fort Stockton and Wal-Mart prints pictures, so we decided to go the extra 90 miles to Fort Stockton to get our pictures printed then ride the 70 miles to Marathon via 385. We had the time and it was a great day to ride. We took Hwy 17 up to I-10….Hwy 17 was a dream, built for cruising! Winding roads through the mountains on a warm sunny day…even saw a bobcat along the road. Top notch!! I-10 is built for getting somewhere fast, not as much fun in among the semis, but we kept ahead of the pack. For the most part, the roads we’ve ridden in Texas have been in good condition. No frost bumps like we have back in Michigan…just smooth road here, ready for riding. Anyway, we get to Wal-Mart in Fort Stockton to find that yes, we do print pictures, but sorry, none of our four machines are working. Another reason to dislike Wal-Mart! And no, there is no other place in town that prints pictures…that the clerk knows of. Aghhh! Anyway, we head back to Marathon but soon realize we’re on Hwy 285, not 385. They both go south to Hwy 90, except 285 goes to Sanderson which is 55 miles east of Marathon. Aghhh! We figure out how to get back over to 385 and then continue on our merry way. Today, cruising along 385, we saw several herds of pronghorn and about a ½ mile of prairie dog town. There were prairie dogs standing right next to the road and their holes were off to the side of the road. We saw them off in a field the other day…don’t know why we didn’t notice that they were much closer than that. All in all, we had a good ride today, even though we didn’t get our pictures printed.
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There are 2 signs on Hwy 385 on the way from Ft. Stockton to Marathon.  The first sign states that I’m Entering Sierra Madera Astrobleme…then a mile or more down the road, a sign tells me that I’m Exiting Sierra Madera Astrobleme.  Been down that road 3 times and I’ve seen those signs 3 times and each time I was clueless as to what to expect in this area.  I didn’t see anything unusual, I didn’t smell anything unusual...yet the highway department thought I needed to know about something.  So I finally turned to Google and my curiosity was satisfied: 00
Sierra Madera crater is a meteorite crater (astrobleme) in southwestern Pecos County, TexasUnited States. The central peak of the rebound structure of the impact crater rises 793 ft (242 m) above the surrounding land. The peak is visible from U.S. Highway 385 between Fort Stockton, Texas and Marathon, Texas. The Sierra Madera crater is located on private property on the La Escalera Ranch.
It is 13 km (8 mi) in diameter and the age is estimated to be less than 100 million years (Cretaceous or younger).
There should be a flagpole rising up out of the crater that says ‘Sierra Madera Astrobleme’…then passing motorists might have a clue as to what the signs mean. 😏
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Ghost bike near Marathon, TX
We’ve driven the road to Alpine at least 6 times since we’ve been here…and today was the first time either of us noticed the Ghost Bike attached to a fence post about 8 miles from camp.  This Ghost Bike belongs to Rene Joseph Ulmschneider.  This an excerpt from a July 23, 2012, Midland Reporter-Telegram article written by staff writer Audrie Palmer:
   Friends who knew Rene Joseph Ulmschneider said it wasn’t unusual for him to take his bicycle on weekend trips and vacations.
   It was on a trip to far West Texas that the 60 year-old member of the Permian Basin Bicycle Association died after being hit by a car.   He was in Marathon for the weekend with his wife, Emmy, a recently retired science teacher at Carver Center.
   Mr. Ulmschneider was killed at 2:16 p.m. Friday (July 20, 2012) while riding in the eastbound lane of Highway 90, 10 miles west of Marathon.
   Department of Public Safety troopers said Lesly Lammons, 31, of Alpine, was driving a 2008 Kia SUV when she hit Ulmschneider. Lammons was charged with intoxication manslaughter Friday and was released from the Brewster County jail on a $10,000 bond Saturday morning, according to the Brewster County Sheriff’s Office.
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Despite my nervousness when booking this campground, it has been a good place to stay.  Rural area, dark skies for Kim’s viewing, close proximity to Big Bend, wildlife, etc.  When we leave tomorrow, the one thing I will not miss is the trains.  All times of the night, the trains come rumbling through.  We hear them and we feel them…again and again and again.  Both freight and passenger trains.  We’ve camped in the vicinity of train tracks before but none as active as these.  Nope, I will not miss the trains.  Our new neighbors, staying in a conversion van, relayed this story to Kim in their lilting French Canadian accent:  They’re from Quebec and Wednesday night had stayed in the Wal-Mart parking lot in Fort Stockton, but oh, the trains…the noise of the trains all through the night. So the man said figured they should go stay in Marathon; it might cost money but at least they wouldn’t have the trains.  Ha! Guess he was a little surprised when the first train rumbled on by. 😧
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Wildlife sightings:  Bobcat, prairie dogs, pronghorn, mule deer and numerous roadrunners
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Rode 261 miles today

Wednesday, March 29...Take Me to the River

The wind died down before midnight last night. I could tell by the noise the trailer wasn’t making. 😌 Woke up to a sunny day but still windy. As I was walking back from the bathroom, I just didn’t know that I had it in me to ride in the wind again.  So I asked Kim if he minded exploring in the truck today…he has no problem with that, so the truck was our chariot today. 
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We were supposed to be leaving today, but extended another day.  So we have to figure out where to go next before tomorrow at 11 a.m., which is check out time.  We’ve been hearing weather stories about other parts of Texas so checking the forecast will definitely be part of our process.  
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Went back into Big Bend today. Left camp about 11, about the same as yesterday, but because we were in the truck we made much better driving time.  We decided to go to the places that we didn’t get to yesterday. First, we went east from the visitor center to the Hot Springs area…although not to the Hot Springs themselves.  The other place we wanted to go was down to Santa Elena Canyon and from experience I knew that the walk to the Rio Grande would be an hour or more. We’d made several stops along the way to Hot Springs to take pictures and to walk to an overlook…basic touristy stops. So we decided to skip the hike into the springs because it was a little too long for the time we had.
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Standing in the Rio Grande 😎
Next up was the 30 mile drive to Santa Elena Canyon, but first we had to get to the turn off, which was about 35 miles from Hot Springs.  And, of course, there were more stops along the way for pictures, informational signs and a bathroom.  The geology of the Chisos Mountains is fascinating…and I’m at a loss to understand how some can claim the earth is only thousands of years old when all the geology suggests hundreds of millions of years.  Anyway, there were stops to make but finally we made it to the canyon parking area.  Put ourselves in walking mode and hiked the ¾ mile trail from the parking lot back into the canyon. We channeled our inner mountain goat for the trail…after winding through a jungle like area, it climbed high along the canyon wall before coming back down to the shore of the Rio Grande.  One of us stepped into the river for a picture and one stood on the shore and offered an arm to hang onto. We were maybe ½ mile into the canyon and the echo factor between canyon walls was great!! 
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I struggle with the pronunciation of Rio Grande…the Spanish version, ‘Ree-oh Gron-day’, doesn’t flow off my tongue as nicely as I’d like it to.  I usually default to ‘Ree-oh Grand’, the more American version.  But I know better than to say ‘Ree-oh Gran-dee’, so I’ve got that going for me. 😏
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Topic that came up today as we were walking:  where does the Rio Grande originate?  Interesting stuff I learned about the Rio Grande River from Wikipedia The Rio Grande is one of the principal rivers in the southwest United States and norther Mexico (the other being the Colorado River).  The Rio Grande begins in south-central Colorado in the United States and flows to the Gulf of Mexico.  Along the way it forms part of the Mexico-United States border.  According to the International Boundary and Water Commission, its total length was 1,896 miles in the late 1980s, though course shifts occasionally result in length changes.  Depending on how it is measured, the Rio Grande is the fourth- or fifth-longest river system in North America. 
The Rio Grande watershed covers 182,200 square miles.  Many endorheic basins are situated within, or adjacent to, the Rio Grande’s basin, and these are sometimes included in the river basin’s total area, increasing its size to about 336,000 square miles. 
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Lunchtime for the roadrunner 😃
We stopped at a store in Hot Springs to get something to eat.  Here’s how it went….1/2 gallon of milk + Oreos/Windmill cookies = lunch. 😋  When we got back in the truck, I noticed movement in the park area ahead of us…roadrunner!  The first one ran off too fast but a second one strolled into view…it stopped in the shade of a tree and we realized that it had something in its beak.  Both of us scrambled for our cameras, hoping it would stay there just a bit longer.  It seemed a bit indecisive as to where to go, so we had plenty of time to get the photo op.  Maybe it was lunchtime for him, too…the thing in its beak was a lizard!  Best shot of the day!! P.S. Notice the crest is down while he's at rest. 
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The temperature was 10 to 15o cooler today than yesterday.  In the mid-70s at Santa Elena Canyon with a nice breeze blowing.  The breeze helped with the hike to the river but it was still hot…I was sweating like crazy and Kim claims he didn’t sweat at all.  What’s up with that?!
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Yesterday we didn’t take the ‘short cut’ because it was an unpaved road and we assumed that meant gravel.  Today we took it because we were in the truck and gravel is right, but the description unpaved road is an overstatement!!  OMGoodness, we were driving through washes and areas where the water had created deep ruts and the road was like a washboard for a good deal of it.  Although it must be said there were a couple of sections that were typical gravel road, but those sections were few and far between.  Kim was having a good time…I was envisioning the truck falling apart.
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Retraced our route up Hwy 118 back to Alpine…not only were we able to drive the speed limit today but it was interesting to see the sights that I missed last night…my focus was on staying in the locked and upright position on my bike, I didn’t look around at the landscape much.  We ate supper at Penny’s Diner in Alpine and then cruised back to Marathon, arriving back at camp about 9:30 p.m.  It was a full day!!
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Wildlife sighting:  deer (5), a fox and a roadrunner with a lizard!

Tuesday, March 28...Running on Empty

Woke up to fog…like thick can’t see the other side of the road fog.  Thankfully it was dissipating by 9:30 a.m. but the air had a dampness to it.  We intended to get on the road about 9:30, but didn’t really get rolling until about 11.  By that time the fog was gone, the sun was out and the air was warm.  Good time to ride!!  (By all accounts, this fog is not typical for this area.)
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None of the fellows behind the black fence were imaging last night…too windy.  But Kim stayed out there, fiddling with his equipment, making adjustments, etc.  It all contributes to the whole at some point in time.
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Today we rode to Big Bend National Park via Hwy 385 from Marathon…came out of the park on Hwy 118 which goes up to Alpine….came on back via 90 to Marathon.  So we made a big 261 mile loop. The cactus are starting to bloom and the wildflowers are plentiful alongside the road.  Big Bend National Park is unusual in that it contains three separate environments…desert, mountain, and river.  The park encompasses a large of the Chihuahuan Desert, the entire Chisos (pronounced Chee-sos) mountain range lies within the park boundary and 118 miles of the Rio Grande which forms the boundary between the U.S. and Mexico lies with the park.  The park covers 801,163 acres and is larger than the state of Rhode Island!  We rode through the desert, up into the mountains to the Chisos Basin and then got within sight of the Rio Grande.  We didn’t get to dip our toes in the river because of time constraints.  I thought we’d be able to ride down into the Santa Elena Canyon and continue on another 13 miles to Hwy 118, which would take us to Alpine.  What I didn’t realize was that 13 mile stretch of road was gravel.  No thanks!  Since we now had to go back out the way we came in and retrace about 22 miles and still go another 12 miles before we were out of park, we opted to head back before we reached the canyon area.  At that point, we still thought that Kim would be able to do some imaging tonight and we wanted to be back before dark.
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Sky clouded up but thankfully no rain fell.
We were warned that today was predicted to be windy. Encountered a little wind during the day but it was the kind that provided relief from the stifling temperatures.  About 4 o’clock I saw 97o on my bike…I imagine it was hotter during the peak of the day.  Anyway, a breeze on a hot day is always welcome.  As we were leaving the park, dark clouds were in the distance.  I asked Kim if he thought those were rain clouds and truthfully, at that point, a little rain didn’t sound too bad.  It was still very hot. As we headed up Hwy 118, the real wind hit…a sign said it 80 miles to Alpine and we rode in constant wind the entire time, along with gusts that threw us sideways and blew dust/dirt across the roads.  And over the course of 1 ½ hours, the temperature dropped to 61o….that’s a 36o drop!  The temperature decrease was gradual at first so I was still comfortable in just a shirt. But then we hit a cool spot; I really wanted to stop to put my jacket on but was afraid of stopping the bike in the wind.  We were heading north and the wind was from the west; in my mind, the wind would have an easier time knocking the bike over because it would be blowing it off the stand, not into the stand. I wasn’t willing to risk it, so I just dealt with the chill.  Fortunately Kim was able to do what I couldn’t bring myself to do…stop.  He just pulled over because he knew I’d be needing a jacket.  I was grateful for the chance to put my sweatshirt on but as soon as we got back on the road, I was wishing I had put my big jacket on…and gloves.  While standing still on the side of the road, a sweatshirt was enough; however, when we started riding again, it wasn’t enough to be comfortably warm but it was better than nothing.  Overall, the ride was great until about 5 o’clock…from that point on it was physically and mentally draining.  We did stop for a quick bit to eat in Alpine so Kim could warm up; then we rode the 30 miles to Marathon in the dark. Thankfully no rain ever materialized from those dark clouds…wind coupled with rain in an area that warns of flash flooding sure would have ramped up the anxiety for me.  What we had was enough to handle: 80 windy miles to Alpine and then another 30 dark windy miles to Marathon…that’s 110 exhausting miles back to camp!
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Yep, Flame was about empty.
As we’re approaching a border patrol stop about 20 miles from Alpine, Kim radios me that he’s going to run out of gas.
What?!  I thought he was kidding...we both have 6 gallon tanks, we’d ridden the same amount of miles and I still had plenty of gas to get to Alpine.  His bike was showing that he had 11 miles remaining on his tank.  Yikes!!  So there’s that added to the crazy wind situation…Flame’s going to run out of gas, I’ll have to take the gas can to get a gallon and bring it back to Kim before it gets dark.  Oh, goody!!  Well, wonder of wonders! Flame made it to Alpine! He was close to empty, though, because it took 5.5 gallons to fill his tank….only took about 5 to fill Zeus.  All part of the adventure, right?! **This is where I was able to put my heavier jacket on. I added the gloves after our gas stop.**
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Finally got a picture!!
I’d been riding all day in the park with my camera on a shoulder harness…it’s the best way to have quick camera access without hurting my neck.  We stopped at the Chisos Basin with the intent of getting something to eat, if only a snack from the store located there. As we stopped the bikes, I saw movement under a tree in front of us…and I knew from the tail that it was a roadrunner.  Oh, please, please, please…stay put until I get my camera turned on.  Got a couple of pictures as it paused on the curb in the shade of a tree. Those weren’t the best but still it was a roadrunner picture.  Then I switched it to video and waited for it to run.  A woman was approaching from one direction so I knew it’d go the other.  Sure enough, got a short video of it running before it was out of sight behind a car.  I knew I could snatch a frame from the video to make a still picture.  Cha-ching!!!   And something I noticed when watching the video….the head crest lay flat until just as the bird took off running, then it popped up on its head in classic roadrunner form.  Don’t know if this is typical roadrunner behavior, but it’s there on the video. So maybe they can control the head crest?
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Kim has been leaving his telescope set up during the day; he has a bag that he ties down over it to protect it, then he doesn’t have to set it up each night.  Well, with the wind today, we both had concerns about whether the scope would still be standing upright when we got back to camp.  Thankfully, everything was as it should be. 
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Saw a javelina at the side of the road today.  By the time we got the bikes stopped to try for a picture, he was making for cover in a field.  We saw him several times but never clear enough for a photo op.  But we both know we saw him. Score!!!
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Rode 261 miles today

Monday, March 27...My Dog and Me

Slow start today…we changed time zones and our body rhythm is still an hour behind what the clock says; Kim was out by the telescope until about 1:30 a.m.; throw in the train that rolled through in the middle of the night…so yeah, we slept in.  Come to think about it, it was a slow day all the way around.  And that’s not a bad thing.
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Our truck has a washable air filter and Kim really wanted to get it cleaned…we’ve been through so much dust, etc.  Closest car wash is in Alpine, about 30 miles away…seemed a good time to get some groceries, too.  Got back to the camp about noon, ate lunch, then we decided to head out for a ride.
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Didn’t have any particular endpoint for our ride.  Kim had a power cord go bad that he uses for his imaging camera so we headed back to Alpine to see if the local Radio Shack had it.  He made his purchase then we were able to hit the open road for the afternoon.  Decided to take a road between Marathon and Alpine (Hwy 67) and ride it until we decided to turn around.  Scenery was fairly consistent…desert and cattle range…but the road was good so we just kept riding.  As it turns out, we rode into Fort Stockton and came back to Marathon via Hwy 385, same road we came in on yesterday.
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Xena, faithful companion 
We met Xena, wonder dog and faithful companion, today at a gas station in Alpine.  She and her owner came riding up on a Victory motorcycle.  Xena has been riding around the country with him for the last 2 years…he says they’ve logged 70,000 miles together.  She wears goggles, is belted into her own dog seat and looked to be having a good time when we saw her…oh, and she also wears a ride bell…owner explained that it’s just a little extra protection against those road gremlins…figures he needs all the help he can get.  She was kind enough to pose for a picture before the both of them went across the road for her to relieve herself.  She has a website, too, but I can’t remember the address right now.  Will sleep on it and maybe I’ll remember it tomorrow. 
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Goodness but the trains have been busy tonight!  Nine have come past in the last 5 hours…from 7 o’clock to midnight.  Most are freight trains and some are passenger trains…all of them make noise and shake the ground. I sure hope they get it out of their system now and leave the wee hours of the morning alone. 
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Saw four roadrunners out on our ride today but wasn’t quick enough to get a picture.  Roadrunners are fast and skittish. Unlike the pronghorn who merely moved a few feet farther into the field when we stopped to take pictures of them…or the prairie dogs who continued doing whatever it is they do while one chirped as I stood along the road taking pictures…or the jack rabbit who moved once and then froze but kept his eye on me while I took pictures…or the hawk who was on a fence post and seemingly more interested in his next meal than me taking pictures of him.  No, the roadrunners see you and they’re gone.  But that doesn’t stop me from trying to get a picture. 😊
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Kim had a good time imaging last night…he was out there next to Dave and Tally, two guys who also have a passion for astrophotography.  By all accounts Kim took some great images but just couldn’t get the stacking program to work. I don’t understand how it works but I know some terminology. 😏
So, on our way to Alpine this morning, he talked through some troubleshooting options and went out tonight ready to see if any of his ideas would make a difference.  Tally put Kim’s images from last night into his stacking program and voila! the Horsehead Nebula that Kim was imaging was a thing of beauty. So maybe there will be a new stacking program in Kim’s future.
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Vermillion Flycatcher
I’ve been seeing a stunning small bird with a red head, breast and underbody with a dark back and wings.  Tried googling ‘red Texas bird’ but the results weren’t the bird I was seeing.  Tonight I overheard two men, one who happens to be a ‘birder’, talking about the red bird so when the opportunity arose I asked if either knew the name of it.  The birder man showed me a picture of both the male and female vermillion flycatcher and it’s definitely the male that I’ve been seeing.   The female’s color is more muted but I don’t know if I’ve seen any females.  I’m not very bird literate and every non-descript unfamiliar bird I see I tend to put in the sparrow category…I may have seen her and lumped her in with the sparrows. I’ll have to be on the lookout for her now that I know what I’m supposed to be seeing.
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Wildlife sightings: pronghorn, prairie dog, hawk, jack rabbit and roadrunner
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Rode 136 miles today…temperature reached 83o

Sunday, March 26...Miles and Miles of Texas

Hwy 385 from Ft. Stockton to Marathon
Up at 8:30 a.m. and ready to leave the park by about 11.  Moving onto Texas today. By the way, Texas is a BIG state!  We wanted to be within an easy ride to Big Bend National Park…and there are no KOAs in that general area of Texas. One in El Paso…one in San Angelo….neither of which would do for riding to and exploring in Big Bend in one day.  We really don’t have a hotel budget so it was pick a city within 50 miles that has a campground.  The big winner was Marathon, TX, which incidentally is known for its dark skies! J   Yesterday, I made a reservation at the Marathon motel/RV park and called it good.
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We like to stay at KOAs because I can make reservations on my phone and there’s a standard of quality…we basically know what to expect.  Mixed feelings this morning as we’re pulling out of the Carlsbad KOA:  leaving behind the new neighbors that stood around their fire pit until close to midnight, drunk, talking loudly and playing music…no, that wasn’t a hardship. Because, really, how many times do you need to hear ‘Simple Man’ in the course of an hour…at night?  No, what made me a bit nervous was not knowing what type of campground we were heading to…what I did was akin to sticking a pin in a map and saying this is where I want to live.   Now three nights doesn’t seem like that big of a deal but as Kim said when I shared my anxiety with him, “I get it…you’re worried we might be staying at some shit place”…Yeah, that’s what I was feeling self-imposed pressure about.  But we discussed it and decided that whatever the quality of the place, we’d be there together and we’d make it work.  Whew!!  Load off my mind!
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Running southeast on US 285 from Carlsbad into Texas is all about oil.  Miles and miles of big open fields  full of scrub brush and oil field paraphernalia….derricks, storage tanks, oil pumps and both oil and natural gas production facilities.  Not too many houses along the way…and the ones we did see appeared to be connected to the oil fields.  Vegetation is stripped away for roads into the fields and the aforementioned oil field apparatus and the wind just has a good ol’ time with the exposed dirt.  Blowing dust like crazy…although the sun and sky were always visible. J  As we drove into Pecos, TX, it was evident that oil money hadn’t reached the local residential areas.  However, rolling on through on 285, there are numerous new hotels going up along with restaurants and other retail stores for the basic out-of-towner.  That along with the fact that we met several people at the Carlsbad KOA that are there from out-of-state working in the oil fields, makes me wonder how much of the local communities are hired.
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I picked the town of Marathon as our jumping off place because Rapunzel told me it was about 40 miles from Big Bend.  However, the signs along the way indicate a slightly higher mileage…more like 60 to 70 miles.  One of these things is wrong.   We’ll know tomorrow how far it is…looks like a good ride, no matter the distance.
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At first glimpse, it looked like the town of Marathon isn’t in on any prosperous oil boom...but we were looking for the motel and not paying strict attention to the town.  A gas station and grocery store is really all we’ll need; we’ll find out tomorrow if we’re in luck on those two items.  And I’m pleased to report that the Marathon Motel/RV Park is not a ‘shit place’. J  We’re basically in a big parking gravel parking lot split into lots but the overall it’s a quaint place…and busy.   The motel part consists of 5 individual buildings with two units per building.  Overall the main part has a hacienda look and feel.  Out away from the RV area is a garden/park area where one can sit and just take in the scenery and the wildlife, mostly birds.  There is the business of being right next to the road and railroad tracks, though.  And I have been told about the possibility of an early morning train passing by. However, the best part of the whole place is the area set aside for telescopes…3 or 4 concrete slabs with power outlets set behind a black cloth fence.  There’s also a college owned dome observatory and what Kim calls a ‘roll off’ observatory.  It’s a metal shed whose roof slides sideways onto a frame built next to the shed. Think carport when it’s in the ‘rolled off’ position.  Anyway, currently there are 4 guys out there with the telescopes ready to take picture of what’s up there…Kim being one of them.  Can’t wait to hear what he thinks about it but it’ll probably be in the morning as I don’t stay up as late as he does when he’s out taking pictures of the heavens.
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Separate encounters with women who aren’t like me at all while I was sitting by the outside fireplace…
  • ·        A woman stopped to talk with me about her day, saying that she’d been in the car all day and it was time to walk around and stretch her legs, then she sat at the table with me for about 30 minutes. J She gave me all sorts of tips about going into Big Bend…what to see, which way to go, what area had good hiking trails, etc.  Even tips on other places to see in this big ol’ state.  Not that I’m going to remember all of it but I did pick up a couple of route options that maybe we’ll try.  She also said that the road out of Marathon into Big Bend is just open desert and is actually kind of boring, so don’t go that way.  What she doesn’t understand is that we don’t consider the desert to be boring…if the road is open and the day is warm, we’re good to go!  She was curious as to what we do for meals, for cooking…”Well, sometimes we eat out but we have a camp stove”, I replied, “and we don’t really get very fancy when we’re camping.  No gourmet meals…hot dogs, mac ‘n cheese, lunch meat sandwiches.” She and her husband have recently acquired an RV and they’re still exploring the cooking possibilities…they don’t do hot dogs much and it seemed like she thought our meal choices were rather plain. Then she highly recommended the town of Alpine where there’s an art gallery or two, some shopping, a grocery store and a university that has a museum in it.  I thanked her for the information but didn't tell here that shopping and art galleries aren’t really the focus of our exploration.
  •      Later, another woman came walking by me and stopped to talk to see if I was able to get online, etc. They’re staying at one of the motel units.  She asked if we’re in an RV…I replied that we’re in the RV park but actually staying in our bike trailer, which she didn’t understand at all. Bike trailer? What kind is that?  I’ve never heard of that!  I explained that we pulled a trailer out here with our motorcycles in it…we take the motorcycles out and set up camp in the trailer.  The look on her face was priceless!  When I explained it wasn’t much different than camping in a tent, she nodded and said, “Oh, okay”.  Then she was onto the bike riding part…asked me if I was ever afraid that the bike would tip over when I was riding it…I replied that I have, indeed, ‘tipped over’ and it’s not something that I dwell on when I’m out on the road. J P.S. She favors the tight layered look with the top layer being an off the shoulder shirt and big curly hair…lots of very blond tight curls.  
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   There is no shortage of birds around here.  Also saw jack rabbits last night…big ears and long legs.

Saturday, March 25...Cheap Sunglasses

Update:  My ear is still plugged and it appears I’ll have to get used to the difference it makes in hearing my own voice when I talk.  Hearing is slightly off, too.
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Woke up at 7 a.m…..alarm had been set for 7:45, so I got up to turn it off.  My phone told me that sometime during the night the temperature had gotten down to 36o.  Whoa!!  Pushed the refresh button so quickly that I didn’t see what time that had been, but I needed to know if I was going to freeze my butt off on the walk to the bathroom.  Refreshing it showed that it was already up to 46o….and it turned out that making that walk could wait and I crawled back into the warmth of the bed. J
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The Carlsbad campground has a huge game room next to the office, with lots of tables, a TV, a foosball table, an aquarium and access to both the laundry room and bathrooms right across the hallway…and the best internet signal in camp. This morning I wandered up to get online and a news talk show was on the huge screen TV and it wasn’t on quiet. A man and his son were sitting at a table nearby so it was headphones and iPod to the rescue!  After a bit, I looked around and realized that I was alone in the room.  Went over to the TV, located the volume buttons and pushed ‘volume down’.  Oh, gracious, the volume increased….now what?  Try it again…yep, it’s getting louder.  Thinking that maybe the buttons were confused, I pushed the ‘volume up’ and the screen went to static.  Decided my best course of action at that point was simply to push the power button….thankfully, the screen went dark.  Let someone who understands the whacked out controls deal with it.  J
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This is the land of open range cattle which necessitates the use of cattle guards.  Arizona had some but New Mexico has taken it to a whole different level.  With all the open range we’ve ridden through, Thursday was the first time I saw cattle near or on the road.  One was approaching from the left and stepping on the road as Kim passed it and because I had slowed down, it managed to get between us.  It stopped in the road and watched me…I stopped in the road and watched it.  It finally meandered all the way across so I could continue on my way.  Anyway, all these cattle guards that we’ve bumped our way across made me wonder who pays for the installation, especially since they’re on public roads…the farmer or the county.  And who maintains them?   I found numerous sites about installing cattle guards on private property but nothing about public roads.   I’m assuming the burden of paying for a cattle guard falls upon the rancher/farmer but it seems like there would be rules and regulations about using them on public roads. 
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We were going to leave today but extended our stay another day.  We had no concrete idea of where we’re heading next other than to Texas.  Well, Texas is a mighty big state and last night my little bitty phone screen was the best we could do to see our options.  Decided that seeing a map on the computer screen would be much more helpful and of course, we needed to go to the clubhouse area between the hours of 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. to get a good signal.  So we leave tomorrow unless we still haven’t figured out where to go. J
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Saw a green advertising ‘air dancer’ adorned with the word ‘Marijuana’ outside a building in Carlsbad the other day.  In the four or five times we’ve driven past there since that day, we’ve not seen the air dancer… but the place does have a sign advertising that it sells ‘pharmaceuticals’.  Got me curious as to the laws in New Mexico governing the use of marijuana.  So I consulted Google, the one with all the answers….found these two sites:
http://statelaws.findlaw.com/    Maybe you’ve been seeing the news that a few states, including our northern neighbor Colorado, have recently legalized recreational marijuana use. And maybe you’re wondering if New Mexico is next. The answer is not quite yet. Despite Colorado’s legalization efforts and some in-state decriminalization support, the Land of Enchantment still prohibits marijuana possession, except for medical use. This is a basic overview of New Mexico’s marijuana laws.
   
www.mpp.org   New Mexico is one of 28 states (plus D.C.) that have removed criminal penalties for the medical use of marijuana. As of June 2016, there were over 26,568 registered patients served by 35 licensed nonprofit producers. There are also 5,865 active personal production licenses.
So the other night, when the Brothers and their neighbors were filling our corner of the campground with the aroma of the magic weed, maybe it was for medicinal purposes.  But, maybe not, as they were from Louisiana, where there is no medicinal law as of yet. J
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Took a ride today just to ride, no particular destination, no sight to see.  However, Kim’s eyes were really having a hard time with the sun today…his corneas are scarred and sometimes the bright sunlight causes his eyes to water, close and sends a pain right through his head.  His helmet visor, along with his glasses, just wasn’t doing the job of cutting the sun enough.  We were going to cut the ride short, no sense in him riding with his eyes watering and/or closed. Before packing it in, he wanted to try one more thing…buy a pair of cheap sunglasses. Proved to be just the ticket, so we decided to ride, in reverse, one of the roads we had ridden on Thursday, the windy day.  It turned out to be a very pleasant ride….cheap sunglasses to the rescue!!   
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We had been back to the camp about 3 minutes when one of the guys from next door came over…
Neighbor: So, I just have to ask…what is that over there?  Is that a telescope or a periscope?  Isn’t a periscope on a submarine?
Kim: That’s a telescope and yes, a periscope is on a sub. 
Neighbor:  I knew I was right…I knew it!! (walking back over to his friends) I was right, it’s a telescope...it’s not a periscope, you idiot.
But he did have to ask….. J
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In the course of our travels around the area, we seen roadside signs warning not to drive drunk along with a picture and name.  When I saw the first one I thought it was just a personal memorial, but then we saw probably 5 or 6 more…all with different names. Seemed like more than a personal family memorial at that point.  But we questioned whether those pictured were victims or a drunk driver that had been killed. So I googled it and found this on amhistory.si.edu:
The New Mexico DWI Memorial Sign Program is one of the oldest programs of its type in the nation. How did it begin?                      
    In 1998, the New Mexico Department of Transportation (NMDOT) established an alcohol related crash victim memorial sign program that publicly memorializes DWI (driving while intoxicated) victims. The program applies only to the installation of signs alongside state highways and is only for persons killed by drunk drivers. Deceased drunk drivers are not eligible.
    There are DWI Programs in all 33 counties in New Mexico. Upon a request by the family or friends of a DWI crash victim, the Eddy County DWI Program submits applications for DWI Memorial Signs to NMDOT for review. Should all of the criteria be met and the application approved the Eddy County DWI Program purchases, manages, and maintains the DWI Memorial Signs in Eddy County. These signs are installed by employees of the NMDOT Carlsbad and Artesia Patrol Yards.
    The signs that your agency donated to the National Museum of American History are compelling reminders of the unfair risks posed by intoxicated drivers. What is special about the Eddy County DWI Memorial Sign Program?
    To increase the effectiveness of the signs, the Eddy County DWI Program requested and received permission to place a picture of the victim on each sign. The sign program was created to get attention and help people relate to the message. We have found that to put a face with a name personalizes the message and delivers a greater impact on the motoring public. The signs serve as stark reminders of the high cost of DWI and reinforce the message that anyone can be the victim of an impaired driver.
    When the DWI Memorial Signs become weathered and faded by the sun, or need replacing for any reason, new signs are purchased. The replaced signs are first offered to family or friends of the victim. They are not discarded or destroyed by the Eddy County DWI Program out of respect for the deceased.
Today we found two signs on opposite sides of the highway, each with a different name.  Same accident, two deaths?
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Rode 101 miles today