Thursday, August 29...Season of the Witch (Donovan)


Woke to no rain but a touch of humidity was back in the air.  Today was moving day again...this time we’re headed to Malden which is just outside of Boston.  We were packed up and on the way to breakfast by 9 a.m.  There are places to go and things to do. 
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   Ate breakfast at St. Joe’s Café, a small corner coffee shop in Scarborough, Maine.  Its motto is ‘Home of the Bennie’ which is a reference to beignets.  Oodles of breakfast sandwiches served all day long plus a bunch of other goodies on the menu. What to order was definitely a difficult decision.  Here’s the scoop from their website:
   The name "St. Joes Coffee" was born from "La Festa di San Giuseppe" or the "Feast of Saint Joseph" where it's customary to celebrate this Patron Saint of Workers, on March 19th, by eating pastry called zeppole. Zeppola is the Italian name for a two inch, deep fried dough "ball" covered with powdered sugar, which is more commonly known as a beignet in the U.S. or the "bennie" here at St. Joe's.
   Home of the Bennie - St. Joe's Coffee is not just a place to get great locally roasted coffee but it is also a place to grab a delicious breakfast sandwich. These aren't typical breakfast sandwiches; they've been described as little omelets on homemade buttermilk biscuits. At last count there were 22 different sandwiches to choose from. There is a daily selection of freshly made muffins and scones, homemade dough nuts and Bennies. What are Bennies? Simply put, the Bennie is fried dough tossed in powdered sugar. But it is so much more than that, the dough is made fresh daily and the Bennies are made to order so they are always hot and delicious. They come four to an order and are served with your favorite dipping sauce (chocolate, blueberry or maple-cinnamon) on the side.
  I had the ‘Roasted Broccoli’ which was a cheese, tomato and broccoli omelet served on a homemade English muffin.  Might try recreating that one at home.
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   On our way to breakfast we pulled up at a traffic light just as it turned yellow.  Waited for it to cycle through to give us the green but it didn’t happen.  Must not have tripped the sensor...I was behind Kim but pulled up even with him to add weight for the next round.  Didn’t work. 
   The second cycle of the light started...the cars in the other lanes of the intersection got their turn to go but not us.  So we scooted a little ahead hoping the car behind us would move up to add his weight and maybe trip the sensor but he wasn’t catching our drift.  I even suggested turning right into the shopping mall so we could come back out and turn right on red if need be.  Kim refused.
  The third cycle started, the line of traffic behind us was building, and there was no approaching traffic. Kim said “Let’s go” and took off.  I was right behind him.  As we cleared the intersection, Kim said, “If the intersection is photo enforced we may be in a little trouble.”
    It was the Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid moment of our trip. 😏
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   Today we wandered around Salem, Massachusetts, famous for the witch trials of 1692.  Lots of old grand homes around the area with the downtown currently appealing to the ‘witchy’ history of the area.  
   We did a self-guided tour of the Salem Witch House.  The name is confusing as no one accused of being a witch lived there; it was actually the home of Judge Jonathan Corwin, one of the magistrates who presided over the trials and it's the only structure still standing with direct ties to the Salem witch trials.  It was an interesting peek into life in the late 1600s and since I didn’t really know much about the witch trials, it was an introduction to a frightening time in history.  Of course, being 350 years removed from the events I have historical perspective but it left me feeling a bit unsettled about the horrible acts committed by humans out of ignorance and in the name of righteousness.     
   From history.com/topics/colonial-america/salem-witch-trials:  The infamous Salem witch trials began during the spring of 1692, after a group of young girls in Salem Village, Massachusetts, claimed to be possessed by the devil and accused several local women of witchcraft. As a wave of hysteria spread throughout colonial Massachusetts, a special court convened in Salem to hear the cases; the first convicted witch, Bridget Bishop, was hanged that June. Eighteen others followed Bishop to Salem’s Gallows Hill, while some 150 more men, women and children were accused over the next several months. By September 1692, the hysteria had begun to abate and public opinion turned against the trials. Though the Massachusetts General Court later annulled guilty verdicts against accused witches and granted indemnities to their families, bitterness lingered in the community, and the painful legacy of the Salem witch trials would endure for centuries.
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   Interesting side note from the same site: In an effort to explain by scientific means the strange afflictions suffered by those "bewitched" Salem residents in 1692, a study published in Science magazine in 1976 cited the fungus ergot (found in rye, wheat and other cereals), which toxicologists say can cause symptoms such as delusions, vomiting and muscle spasms.
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   The interesting thing about these trials is that ‘spectral evidence’ was allowed. Spectral evidence? Time for another Google search.   
Spectral evidence refers to a witness testimony that the accused person’s spirit or spectral shape appeared to him/her witness in a dream at the time the accused person’s physical body was at another location. It was accepted in the courts during the Salem Witch Trials. The evidence was accepted on the basis that the devil and his minions were powerful enough to send their spirits, or specters, to pure, religious people in order to lead them astray. In spectral evidence, the admission of victims’ conjectures is governed only by the limits of their fears and imaginations, whether or not objectively proven facts are forthcoming to justify them. [State v. Dustin, 122 N.H. 544, 551 (N.H. 1982)].”  (Found on the site https://salemwitchmuseum.com
   It took me a while to work through this definition but eventually I got the gist of it. And as maddening as some of the current rules of evidence might be, I’ll say that I’m glad that spectral evidence is no longer allowed. 
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   We walked to the memorial at the site of the hangings.  Roadside America gives this information about it:  Salem Witches Hanging Site Nineteen people (14 women, five men) were hanged as witches on Gallows Hill during the Salem Witch Trials of 1692 -- and then the town did its best to forget it ever happened. A long overdue memorial was dedicated to the victims on July 19, 2017, the 325th anniversary of the first hangings. Part of the reason it took 325 years to build an execution site memorial was because, until recently, historians couldn't agree on the exact location. By 2016, experts had finally pinpointed a rock outcropping named Proctor's Ledge as the travesty-of-justice-dispensing part of Gallows Hill. Today it overlooks a Walgreens.
   Salem went out of its way to make its memorial as understated as possible...there is plenty of over-the-top witch drama elsewhere in town. It sits at the base of the sloping and neatly landscaped hill, next to the street: a low wall with the names of the nineteen victims etched into it, set around an oak tree, symbolizing strength and endurance. Spotlights illuminate the names at night.
   The actual hanging spot, atop the hill, is inside the fenced back yards of a couple of homes, whose owners may not have been expecting all this attention.
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 Footnote on Giles Corey from Wikipedia:  Giles Corey (c. August 1611 – September 19, 1692) was an English-born American farmer who was accused of witchcraft along with his wife Martha Corey during the Salem witch trials. After being arrested, Corey refused to enter a plea of guilty or not guilty. He was subjected to pressing in an effort to force him to plead—the only example of such a sanction in American history—and died after three days of this torture.  Being pressed to death...it seems a truly barbaric punishment but then again hanging seems over-the-top also.

*Bottom line from today’s visit to Salem:  It was very sobering.  I can’t imagine the horror of the day...people were pointing fingers at others simply to avoid suspicious of themselves so nobody seemed safe, except maybe the magistrates.  The cynic in me wonders if things have really changed that much in that regard.* 
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   Humidity reared its ugly head again today.  Hot ride on the bikes and a hot walk around Salem. 
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   We had 7 o’clock reservations at the No Name Restaurant on Boston’s Fish Pier.  Had it on good authority that a trip to Boston was complete without a visit to the No Name.  It was a busy place...and we all agreed that the food was very good.  More lobster, scallops and shrimp for me.  Now about the name...
   Shortly before the outbreak of the First World War – and a solid year before Harry Frazee sold Babe Ruth to the New York Yankees – Nick Contos debuted a seafood stand on South Boston’s Fish Pier serving fresh catches to fisherman undocking from a long day. Nick didn’t name the place, and that name stuck. “If it works, leave it alone,” he said.  (Found on nonamerestaurant.com)
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Thursday’s miles:  121
Total:   2,157

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