Back in the Mitten!!

Wednesday, April 13
Got up and hit the road.  Decided that getting to Charlevoix was probably a bit of a stretch today.  But there is a new puppy at Isla’s house, so we decided it was a great opportunity to see the MI WonderKid, her parents and Rufus.   So that’s where we aimed the truck.  Our route took us past Fort Wayne….have a great niece in the hospital there, so we decided to make a quick stop on our way through.  Got to see nieces, nephews, sister and brother-in-law while there. 
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Not much happening in our world today except for driving, eating, and dozing along the way…me, not Kim.  No side stops…well, except for the hospital visit.  When we were leaving the hospital, we started the search for a bathroom. Took a few more minutes than I would have liked but eventually found them.  I was waiting for Kim to come out and noticed a man doing the same kind of searching we had been doing.  Also noticed the look of relief on his face when he saw the ‘restrooms’ sign hanging from the ceiling.  As he came around the corner in the direction the arrows indicated, eyes still searching for the door, he muttered, “Trying to find a bathroom is like trying to find Waldo.”  Well said, sir…well said!
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Felt a small thrill when we passed the “Pure Michigan” sign.  Back to The Mitten State and our own time zone!!  We’ve had some minor bumps along the way, but overall it’s been a great trip.  But as with every lengthy time away, it’ll be good to get home and back to our life.  J  We’ll have to get the coolant issue checked out on the truck and we’ll have to determine the extent of the damage on the bikes.  I’m expecting to be bombarded by work calls next week….I had our home phone forwarded to my cell so I could deal with work calls as they came up. Told people I’d be back to work on the 18th and to give me a call back then.  So I’ll be facing that music next week, but until that time I’m just going to enjoy being back home…maybe do a little tap dancing.  J



We're not in Kansas anymore, Toto....

Tuesday, April 12
Stayed at the Best Western in Great Bend, KS, last night.  On the way, I was searching for hotels on my phone…there were maybe 8 listed and the cost didn’t vary too much, so I started reading the reviews so we could make a more educated decision.  The hotel in Trinidad taught us that.  Majority of the reviews warned the weary traveler away from that particular hotel and toward Best Western.  Best Western was getting some good advertising because the experiences at the other hotels were less than stellar…and most of those reviews were about other chain hotels, not the little independent ones.  Anyway, didn’t take much persuading to stop at Best Western to get a room.  J
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The farmland is active at this point…there’s plowing, planting, irrigating and even some growing.  I mentioned how far ahead the Kansas growing season is from ours.  Then Kim wondered what parallel we might be on now  since we were up near the 45th.  That prompted a discussion of parallels, the equator, North/South poles and involved some math.  Who says a long drive has to be boring? J
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Yesterday, on a section of Hwy 160 in Colorado, we drove through a section of the Comanche National Grasslands. Got to wondering what the designation of National Grassland means.  I looked on Google and Wikipedia gave me the scoop, which I read to Kim:   National Grassland is a classification of protected and managed federal lands in the United States authorized by Title III of the Bankhead-Jones Farm Tenant Act of 1937. For administrative purposes, they are essentially identical to United States National Forests, except that grasslands areas primarily consisting of prairie.  Like National Forests, National Grasslands may be open for hunting, grazing, mineral extraction, recreation and other uses.  Various National Grasslands are typically administered in conjunction with nearby National Forests. 
   The catastrophic Dust Bowl of the 1930s led to the creation of the Soil Conservation Service in 1933.  This and subsequent federal laws paved the way for establishing national grasslands.  
That led Kim to say he wanted to hear more about the Dust Bowl, so I googled it and spent most of the next half hour reading….out loud. J
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Seemed like most of Kansas was on fire today.  First noticed a plume of smoke out to the southeast and hoped it wasn’t a wildfire.  Kim brought my attention to several more smoke plumes out to the northeast and mentioned that he thought it might be a controlled burn of grass, as we were driving along sections of burned fields.  Then, it seemed there was smoke everywhere on the horizon….and more blackened fields, some with new green growth already.  We eventually passed a burn happening alongside the road, complete with flames and I was amazed that there weren’t more people supervising or firetrucks available or whatever is needed to make sure it didn’t burn something more than grass.  Kim explained how to control a burn like that with minimal help…make sure it’s not too dry, check wind direction, establish a burn line, direct the burn toward the line, etc.  And today was probably a good day because of the amount of rain that fell over the last couple of days.  Yep, Kansas was on fire today!!
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Near Strong City, KS, we passed a sign for the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve…I wanted to check it out.  Because spring has a hold on Kansas already, I figured the grass would be growing and it would be fun to see just how tall it was.    Wrong!!  Spring hasn’t touched the grass yet….still dried up and bent over from winter.  After watching a short video about the history and current management of the tallgrass prairie, we went for a walk…the weather was warm, there was a walking path into the prairie and there was still plenty to see.  We walked about ½ mile to just beyond a ridge where the preserve’s buffalo herd roam.  Took plenty of pictures, then headed back.  When we got to the truck, Kim asked me to google the nps.gov site to see what it had to say about the buffalo.  Didn’t find anything specific about them, but I did find this under the FAQs:
Q: Where is all the tall grass?
A:  It is a common misconception that one will see an entire prairie of six feet tall greases blowing in the wind at any time of the year.  In the spring the grasses will not have reached their full height; they are just beginning to grow.  It takes nature an entire season to grow the prairie grasses.  Think of “tall in the fall”.  The tallest grasses grow in the bottomland areas where water is more readily available and the soils are deeper.  The grasses on the prairie uplands will generally grow between three and five feet high. 
So apparently I’m not the only one who thought the tallgrass would be tall.  J
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As it turns out, the preserve was having a ‘prescribed burn’ so there was smoke in the air.  A woman was coming out of the Visitor Center as we were approaching.  She said to be sure to watch the video inside because with the burn and the smoke and that’s when the monologue started (my attempt to join in is in black):  Well, here…let me show you…I took a picture of the smoke.  Oh, darn, I don’t know where it is.  Well, that’s not what I was looking for, I don’t know what I’m do….that’s my house.  Maybe I never should have left my house.  I started on this big trip and have had nothing but bad luck.  I had to drive all that rain in Indianapolis, so I got past that and my car breaks down.  Turned out to be the water pump.  It was not a cheap fix…see I have the receipt right here.  Maybe I shouldn’t have…but whaddaya gonna do?….well, it would have happened at some point anyway.   My friend told me to take my van, to just get on the road.  Yeah, our truck broke down in….  Well, I was hoping to see some spring but I haven’t seen anything like that. I think I’m heading up to 35, maybe there’ll be some green up there.  I’m from Pennsylvania and well, it’s been crazy weather there.  Well, if you head west along 50, there is gre….. Is there?  Well, that’s good to know. Yeah, we just came from that way.  Well, maybe I should flip a coin on what route to take, although it might not have worked so well for me when deciding when to take this trip.  I don’t know, maybe I should have waited ‘til May. I wanted to take a month long trip…maybe the coin toss didn’t work so well.  You guys shouldn’t go the way I’m going….wouldn’t want my luck to rub off.  Well, have a good trip!   Then she turned and walked back to her van with the new water pump.
Now I can chatter away with the best of ‘em, but this lady made my head spin….and apparently she  is a glass half empty kind of person and does not have good adventures. J
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The buffalo at the Tallgrass Prairie Nat’l Preserve have a different build than the buffalo at Custer State Park in South Dakota or Yellowstone Park.  They are leaner through the shoulders, their heads are not as massive and, I don’t know, maybe their legs are longer. Oh, for sure, they’re big and have the same little eyes in a big head, but there’s a noticeable difference.
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I took a turn at driving today to give Kim a break and to try my hand at pulling the trailer.  Drove for about an hour 45 minutes.  I halfway thought Kim would take a nap since we had a big lunch, but I guess me being behind the wheel was enough to keep him perked up.  And at first, it seemed to me that he didn’t know how to be a passenger, but eventually he picked up his camera to take pictures of things he was seeing.  That’s what I do.
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Don’t even know what to think about this….after Kim took back over driving, I got us on the wrong road for what our plan was.  So I directed him to take a county road to get us in the correct direction.  Road surface was good, if somewhat bumpy here and there.  I was looking at the map as we were rolling along, and glanced up as I was starting to say that the road should curve up ahead; instead I saw a sign and said, “The pavement ends….oh, shit, the pavement ends!!”  And to top it off, there was a monster railroad track.  Kim slowed as much as he could, but the trailer still bumped and bounced over those tracks. Immediately stopped to check the bikes…both had come loose…Bernie took more damage to his gas tank and has a broken light bar on his saddlebag and Pegasus has a tiny dent and minor paint issues on the tank and the quick release windshield quickly released, otherwise that would have cracked or broken.  I cringed when I saw Bernie….it appears to be just a body shop issue but we’ll know more when the bikes come off the trailer.  Kim was more concerned about Pegasus….he said that Bernie is a road warrior but Pegasus is a ‘new bike’.  When I protested that he was not a new bike, Kim said “Well, you bought him brand new.”  Yes, I bought him new in 2011, but my ‘new bike’ has over 66,000 miles now.  I have some touch up paint for the tank, but Bernie will require more cosmetic attention than that.  On this one, I just can’t look at Kim, smile and say ‘Just part of our great adventure, right?’  Maybe at some point but not now.  And I know in the big scheme of things, this is small stuff and I have to keep it in perspective….but right here, right now, this sucks!! 

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We changed our plan….drove last night until about midnight just to get some miles behind us. Getting anxious to get home to our own bed!  Now that we’re just driving to get home, it seems silly to drag it out.  I hear that nice weather is supposed to be heading toward The Mitten State.  I hope it gets there before we do!  

Long train not running....

Monday, April 11
Woke to cold (37o) and light snow.  Last night was pleasantly in the high 50s when we checked into the hotel. This turn of events is unexpected and unwelcome.
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We are in the state of legalized marijuana and our hotel last night in Trinidad was near a couple of dispensaries.  We both woke up this morning wondering if out-of-staters travel to Colorado for a long weekend and hole up in a hotel near a ‘farmacy’ enjoying what they can buy openly and legally.  After all this is the land of opportunity.
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So Kim was up and out of the hotel at 8 a.m. to see if the Ford dealership could help us with our coolant issue.  When he got back to the room, he said ‘dealership’ was a bit of a stretch and that no, they couldn’t help us anytime soon.  So we got on the road, armed with anti-freeze to continue doing what we’ve been doing.  We’ll get it checked out when we get home. 
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We retraced part of our route from The Final Four bike trip last fall.  We had several route options coming out of Trinidad….we chose to stay on Hwy 160.  During The Final Four, we rode from Trinidad to the state line on Hwy 160.  It was on this route that we stopped at the bar in Kim, CO, to meet the bar owners and tell them that ‘Charlie said Hi’.  I wrote ‘Charlie sent us’ on a dollar bill and stapled it on the wall, adding it to the roughly 1,000 other dollar bills stapled around the bar.  It was also along this route that Kim’s bike broke down near the town of Walsh, CO; Earl Hopper, a local, put the bike up on one of his trailers to get it to Dodge City, KS, about 130 miles away.  I followed on my bike.  A couple of very memorable days in another adventure.  J 
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I chose to take this part of Hwy 160 because I remembered it to be a road made for riding through some flat yet interesting landscape.  Kim remembered it as a bumpy road…he was right!   I wanted to be able to do more gawking than I could  while on the bike.  However, snow mixed with rain along with windshield wipers made for some tough looking out the windshield.  Fortunately, the door window was staying mostly dry, so I cranked myself around to do my gazing out that window.  Saw herds of pronghorn and a lot of hawks, some just sitting and watching and some flying.     
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One thing I noticed was that pronghorn blend with the landscape out here…a tan to dark brown hide in a world of tan.  However, the one thing that makes a pronghorn noticeable in a situation like that is the white butt.  Gives ‘em away every time!  Kim was wondering about the horns…he always assumed that both male and female had horns but looking at the pictures we took yesterday, he was unsure.  Seems like a job for Google!  Azantelope.org put his mind to rest:  The name "pronghorn" is derived from a forward projection or prong on each horn. Pronghorn have true horns, in that the horn sheath is composed of fused hairs which cover a bone core. The horn sheath is shed each year in October-November. In comparison, deer and elk have antlers which are composed entirely of bone and shed completely each year. Both sexes of pronghorn have horns, but those of the female are much smaller (4 inches), seldom exceeding the length of the ear. Horns on males reach their maximum length, 12-20 inches, by the beginning of breeding season, July or August. 
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As the snow gave way to rain, I noticed a weird thing happening out in the fields.  Since it was in the 60s yesterday and the ground is warming up some, there were columns of what I assume was steam rising up in the air.  Sort of like a dust devil but made of steam…actually looked a bit ghostly.  The clouds were low hanging so in places it looked like the column was extending from the cloud to the ground.  Just a bizarre phenomenon that played games with my eyes.  I wish my camera could capture what I was seeing. 
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Crossed into Kansas and apparently changed time zones again.   One hour behind Michigan now…my eyes can read the numbers on the clock but my mind and body just aren't going along with it.  
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Along Hwy 160, Colorado is a consistent color this time of year.  Washed out brown or tan, with the occasional dark rock in the background…today it was cloudy and there was some ground cover snow.   Kansas was a pleasant departure from the muted color and drab skies and that surprised me; I thought the fields would be that winter blah color, waiting for the spring plowing/planting and that it would be cloudy with rain all across southwestern Kansas.  The weather map showed a lot of rain in the direction we were heading.  However, there are fields of lush green already; there were cows grazing in some of those green fields, so I think maybe it’s grass. There are golden fields, either a scrub grass or leftover sorghum or corn stalks.  There was also darker, plowed up fields. Add the blue sky and white clouds and the color of Kansas was a welcome sight.
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Driving along the wide open plains of Kansas and we see a ‘Scenic View’ sign.  Both of us are very curious as to what constitutes a scenic view on the open plains with miles of fields and wind turbines.  Turns out the wind turbines are the scenic view.  Who knew?!  Then I thought, Hey, let’s see if there’s a geocache nearby.  There was…it was a virtual cache and turns out it was the wind turbines again.  Can’t say that I understand the virtual cache idea, so I looked it up.  This is what geocaching.com has to say about itA Virtual Cache is about discovering a location rather than a container. The requirements for logging a Virtual Cache vary—you may be required to answer a question about the location, take a picture, complete a task, etc... In any case, you must visit the coordinates before you can post your log. Although many locations are interesting, a Virtual Cache should be out of the ordinary enough to warrant logging a visit.  So, the wind turbines served double duty…triple duty if you count the energy production. J
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Miles of parked train cars in Kansas
Both Colorado and Kansas seem to use train tracks for train car storage.  Arizona has a very active rail system; however, all we saw on CO and KS tracks were miles of parked train cars. No engine…no caboose…just cars.  There would be a gap in the line if there was a driveway or road, otherwise they were hooked together, waiting.  Saw tankers and box cars. Mostly these are single tracks along the highway, so the tracks are effectively rendered unusable until the cars are moved. We were both very curious about this subject, so I googled it.  Didn’t out much about it except that rail traffic is driven by the economy and when it’s cheaper to move goods in another manner, the unneeded cars are parked along unused tracks.  Some rail companies ‘rent’ their tracks for storage.  It’s a win-win for the companies; not so sure for the people who have to look at the inert cars on a daily basis.  While I didn’t find an abundance of information on the subject, I did come across a site that put forth an interesting theory…terrorism. I don’t know enough to scoff at that notion, but I do question some of what I read on the site thecommonsenseshow.com
Miles of parked train cars in Colorado
   The story involves the “discovery” of several Chinese manufactured railroad cars which are designed to transport deadly chlorine gas. The cars are abandoned along a defunct set of railroad tracks. The line is no longer in use, yet, about a year ago, these chlorine railroad cars suspiciously began to appear on this inactive railroad.  Ed was told that these mysterious rail cars just showed up out of thin air. A short time ago, these cars moved approximately one mile and blocked Highway 54. Law enforcement had to shut down the highway for the better part of the day. Both law enforcement agencies have asked the locals to remain vigilant. DHS and the FBI have asked local law enforcement to do the same.
    The obvious implication is that law enforcement feels that they are dealing with a potential terror event. The train cars should not have been able to move because the abandoned tracks are in such a state of disrepair that nothing could barely move on the tracks. Further, if the trains were to start moving, the air brakes would immediately kick in and stop the train cars. Nobody in law enforcement knows how the train cars made it onto a defunct railroad line. And certainly, nobody knows how these cars moved into position to block a local highway. 
I’m sorry but I just don’t know how these large train cars “just showed up out of thin air.”  They are big and they are noisy. Someone would have noticed! Even if a helicopter was used to lower one down onto the tracks…it would be noisy and someone would have noticed.   And I don’t know why asking locals to remain vigilant implies that law enforcement feels that they’re dealing with a potential terror event.  My mind just doesn’t make those leaps…but it made for some interesting and entertaining reading.
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I started out the day in shorts and stayed with that decision, despite the cold.  However, I did put on a pair of my knee high riding socks when I got in the truck.  I find shorts to be more comfortable when riding for hours in the truck and I have a blanket that I throw over my legs if I get chilled.  Day warmed up nicely and except for the initial walk to the truck this morning, I did not regret my decision.   



A state of being.....

Sunday, April 10
Last night we researched, discussed and then decided not to go to Monument Valley this morning.  It boiled down to this:   We’d already seen some astounding landscape along Hwy 89 and Hwy 160 on our 2 day drive from Flagstaff to Kayenta, and then again on our bike ride to the Utah border yesterday afternoon.  I have no doubt that the buttes in Monument Valley are an incredible sight but we’d seen a lot of eye popping scenery during our time in Arizona.  I was kind of feeling that one more thing was going to send me into sensory overload. So we opted not to do Monument Valley….save something for next time. J
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We stopped at the Four Corners Monument on our way out of Arizona….I’ve been there before but wanted to stop again because, well, it’s like the ultimate Roadside America thing to do! It’s really not a big showy monument….just a brass survey marker set in a cement pad, with lines radiating outward.  That makes it easier to figure out how to be in all 4 states at the same time, which as Kim proved really didn’t require extraordinary maneuvers. It’s fun, though, to watch people get creative.  The four corners coming together like they do is called a quadripoint….I like that it looks like the corners of a quilt patch.  I know there’s been talk about the surveyor’s marker being in the wrong place, but if the surveying was accurately done over a century ago with tools available at the time and all parties were okay with the outcome, what does it serve to question the location now?   It is where it is and who is going to change it?  Certainly not the Navajo, whose land it’s on.  There are permanent booths set up in a square surrounding the monument where Native crafts are sold.  As we were strolling around, Kim asked one guy if he had to rent his stall….Yes and the rent goes to the tribe from that particular state.  His was on the Colorado side, so the rent went to the Colorado Ute Tribe.  But it was interesting that all the crafters in the stalls along the Colorado side seemed to be selling the same items.  Hmmm…..
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The truck has been leaking anti-freeze pretty much the whole trip, but Kim couldn’t find the problem and the temperature gauge has been in the normal range the whole time. He has been checking the levels and putting anti-freeze in as needed. Back in Cedar City, when we had the alternator issue, he asked the mechanics to check it out; they couldn’t find a problem, and yet it continues to leak.   Mystifying, costly and somewhat smelly. J  So today we decided to take the time to have it checked out again.  Stopped for the night in Trinidad, CO, where there’s a Ford dealership just down the road from our hotel.  Tomorrow morning Kim is going to take the truck down and see if they have time to look at it.  If not, we’ll keep a supply of anti-freeze on hand and just keep feeding the beast.
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Today, when we stopped to let the engine cool so more anti-freeze could be added, Kim took the opportunity to check the bikes.  Quite disconcerting to find that the back tie downs on Pegasus had come loose, allowing him to lean over into Bernie, who, in turn, was leaning against the wall.  While the back tie downs had come loose before, Pegasus always remained upright.  Neither bike had tipped sideways before.  The way the bikes are staggered, Bernie’s right hand grip rubbed against Pegasus’ windshield, leaving a mark and Pegasus’ left grip rubbed against Bernie’s gas tank, leaving the paint scratched up. L  A new windshield was already on my list and giving Bernie a new look had been discussed last year, but that was before telescopes.  Once the bikes are off the trailer, we’ll give the damage closer inspection and go from there. 
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As we were traveling east through Colorado, we admired the snow covered mountains in front of us. Driving along we suddenly saw a sign that indicated we would reach the summit of Wolf Creek Pass in 8 miles and just that quick, we found ourselves among the snow covered mountains.  I scrambled for the map to see if we were going to be in another ‘Curves and Mountain Grades’ situation.  No, this road looked to be a bit more sensible on that front and thankfully there was no snow on the roads, just on the surrounding hillsides. Going into a hairpin turn, we passed 4 big horn sheep grazing at the side of the road.   After the turn, we pulled into a turnout to see if we could see the sheep below.  I was wearing shorts and was surprised at how pleasant the temperature was.  Because there was snow, I expected it to be cold but it wasn’t. The depth of snow along the road increased as we climbed higher up the mountain….I could see where snowmobilers had been having some fun.  There was also a ski resort near the summit that appeared to be closed.  There were several waterfalls coming down the rocks alongside the road, also.   I wonder if the snow ever totally melts off the mountain.
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We’re in Mountain Standard Time for real now.  No more clock confusion…we’re two hours behind Michigan.  Now we start the process of getting our body clocks back on the right time.
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Just when I thought that all the wildlife had disappeared, we hit the jackpot along 160 through Colorado.  Earlier in the day, I saw a mule deer and then we saw the 4 bighorn sheep on the way up the mountain.  Down off the mountain in the hilly plains area, we were cruising along just before dusk and saw pronghorn, lots of pronghorn along the way.  Then not far down the road we saw a herd of elk…9 or 10 with two of them having antlers.  Of course, we stopped to take pictures.  As I was doing that, I heard a very melodic bird song, figured out where it was coming and snapped a picture of the bird.  It turned its head just at the right time so that I could see the yellow bib of a meadowlark. J    


Where the rain plays....

Saturday, April 9
It was a day of sightseeing while heading in the direction of home. We still have over 1,800 miles to go, so it’ll take a few days.  J
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Time continues to be confusing.  The Navajo Reservation observes Daylight Saving Time, the rest of Arizona does not.  So the Navajo Nation is an hour ahead of the rest of the state.  We had a reservation for a canyon tour today at 12:00 pm. MST.  I received a reminder email which contained this caution:  **PLEASE arrive early.  Due to high demands for tours, we ask all guests to arrive 1 hour early during the months of October to March and 1.5 hours early during the months April to September.   If you have not checked in 30 mins prior to your scheduled tour, you will be scheduled for the next available tour**
So, we stay in Page which did not spring ahead as it is not located on the reservation.  However, the people at the hotel tell us that all tours run on the current Arizona time, not reservation time.  What?  So, our tour was at noon, we needed to be there 1 ½ hours early, we had no idea where we were going….so to be safe we left our hotel at 9:30, figuring better to arrive way too early than too late.  Since the tour location was about 10 minutes from our hotel, we were over 2 hours early, which was okay but now we needed to kill a couple of hours.  Might as well check in while we’re here.  Wait a minute!  They have room for more people on the 10 o’clock tour...Hey, Kim, would you be game to go on an earlier tour?  Sure, why not?   So confusion and a slight paranoia about being late worked out in our favor.J
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Antelope Canyon is a busy place!  There is a 15 minute ride out to the mouth of the canyon, which is really a wide crack in the sandstone wall.  This is what the Navajo Tour site has to say about the canyon:           
   Formed over hundreds of years of water running through sandstone, Antelope Canyon is both a sacred site for the Navajo and a favorite destination for tourists from all over the world. 
   Upper Antelope is at about 4,000 feet elevation, and the canyon walls rise 120 feet above the streambed.  The rocks that make up Antelope Canyon are the petrified remains of prehistoric sand dunes formed by erosion of the sandstone by flash flooding. Rainwater, especially heavy during the monsoon season, runs into the extensive basin above the slot canyon, picking up speed and sand as it rushes into the narrow passageways. Over time the passageways erode, making the corridors deeper and smoothing hard edges that form the characteristic ‘flowing’ shapes in the rocks. At times the water cut its way into this sandstone with such tremendous force that it created eddies and whirlpools, which formed spiraling walls referred to as the Corkscrew formation. Looming overhead at almost every turn are many large overhangs with spiraling grooves carved into the sandstone creating breathtaking sites and images.
The sights are indeed breathtaking!  There are openings overhead and how much sunlight reaches down into the canyon plays a huge part in the color intensity of the canyon walls….various shades of orange when we were there. Our guide said that the color constantly changes…that what you see at any given minute would not look the same in the next minute because of the variables of the angle and intensity of the sunlight and the shadows that are caused by the overhangs.  I saw this in action…I was standing in a spot that really wasn’t lit up enough to get a picture, then as the sun came from behind a cloud, it was as if someone suddenly turned a spot light on from above; but the light was turned off quickly as the sun went behind another cloud.  The walls and overhangs have swirly patterns which seemed to really pop when the sunlight plays over the surface.  Words really don’t describe it adequately…photos say it best.
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Each tour had 10-13 people on it and there were several tours in the canyon at any given point.  Seems nowadays everybody has the ability to take pictures because of smart phones and there was a lot of picture taking in the canyon.  In fact, before the tour started, our guide gave pointers on the best settings for camera and phones to get optimal results.  When we got to the canyon, she took pictures with her phone so she could show us how and where to get the best shots and most of those were taken with head tipped back (like a Pez dispenser) and camera/phone pointed overhead. (It was interesting to me that she was confused as to how to use the zoom and take a picture with my camera, a basic point and shoot.) We stayed within our groups as we walked the ‘hallway’ through the canyon.  And because the exit was the same as the entrance, there were groups coming at us from the other direction on their way out.   With all this activity, it took patience to get a picture without the top of someone’s head or their hands holding a phone up to take their picture.  **I would have paid extra to have been able to go there by myself for ½ hour.**
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After the canyon tour, we headed over to where the Colorado River sweeps around a big chunk of sandstone.  It looks like a big lasso around the rock to me, but is called Horseshoe Bend because all you can see of the river is a horseshoe shaped chunk of it.  It’s about a mile walk round trip but worth every step, even if you’re wearing a black shirt and the sun suddenly turns on the heat. J  To actually take in the entirety of the scene, you have to go up to the edge of the canyon rim….very cautiously, in my case.  There was a cautionary sign on the way to the overlook that warned of standing near the edge of what you think is solid rock but in reality could just be an overhang with nothing but air beneath it…and which could itself weaken over time and be a hazard.  I took that sign very seriously.  But we found a vantage point that was solid underneath and from which we could see the entire view below.  Saw some parents getting after their children for presumably getting too close to the edge.  Again, I didn’t understand the language but I understood the anxiety behind the reprimand. 
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Headed to a hotel in Kayenta, AZ, which is about 20 miles from the Utah border and about 25 miles from Monument Valley.  Incredible sights the whole way from Page to Kayenta.  After checking into the hotel, we unloaded the bikes and took a ride out Hwy 163, the road to Utah and Monument Valley.  Rode about 50 miles and saw lots of rock formations along the way and from where we stopped by the Utah sign, I think we saw a lot of the ‘monuments’, too.  It’s not like they can hide.  J


  

Here comes the rain....

Friday, April 8
The sound of light rain on the trailer roof woke up in the middle of the night.  I first did a quick mental inventory of what was outside…nothing that would be hurt by rain.  The little monkeys were still on the bikes, but they could stand a good bath.  The non-fragile telescope stuff had already been wrapped in heavy duty bags and packed in the bed of the truck.  As I lay there thinking about what was outside, the rain started falling harder; that’s when I thought about all the ‘Flash Flood Area’ signs, hoping the campground wasn’t in one of those areas.  That's an adventure I could do without.  There was the low roll of thunder mixed in; I assume there was lightning also but couldn’t see that in the windowless trailer.  Rain was over by the time the alarm went off…7:30 a.m.  The air was a bit cooler and fresher…the sparse grass was a bit greener…the dirt was a bit muddy…but the areas under the bikes, truck, trailer and picnic table were still dry.  Must have been a straight down rain.    **As the sun is warming up, the ground is quickly reverting back to being dusty.
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There are so many ‘Blowing Dust Area’ and ‘Flash Flood Area’ signs throughout Arizona, that one wonders why the state hasn’t been blown or washed away.
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I had one last conversation with our neighbor, Barbara, the Harley trike rider.  She’d received some exciting news early this morning from an editor about one of the books she’s writing and I guess needed to share it with somebody.  Even though there’s more editing to be done on the book, she’s tickled that she’s one step closer to get it published…even if she has to go the self-publishing route.  She and I have a few things in common….we have a need to ride, learned to ride in our 50s, have survived a bike crash and we’re both widows.  Yes, I’ve remarried but that doesn’t mean I’ve forgotten what Jeff’s death did to life as I knew it.  Her husband passed away within the last year…her bike trip is partly a way to deal with the anger/grief that she feels.  So we had some common ground and some good conversation.  She’s got a couple more days at Holbrook before heading west to visit the Grand Canyon, get a tire replaced on her bike, etc.  Before we parted ways, we exchanged email addresses and hugs.  Told her we’d be looking for her name to appear in print sometime in the future. 
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Moving day again…this time to a hotel in Page, AZ….north near Utah. We came up here with a purpose….tomorrow we’re going to take a tour of Antelope Canyon.  This past Christmas, Ezra, Anna and Elise took a tour and posted pictures that made me drool.  The beauty of the canyon was amazing in the pictures; imagine how much more amazing it would be in person.  Frankly I didn’t know what a 'slot canyon’ was but after seeing pictures I knew I wanted to visit this one. I promptly put it on the ‘must do’ list we made for our Arizona trip. 
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Today’s road trip was all about weather and scenery. We took US 40 to Hwy 89, which took up right into Page, AZ.  From Holbrook to Flagstaff we encountered driving rain, distant dark clouds with rain streams hanging beneath, thunder and lightning, and eerie looking white clouds.  Along Hwy 89 the layers, variety and intensity or subtlety of colors are what made the rock formations so eye popping.  I kept snapping pictures knowing it was probably an exercise in futility to take pictures from a vehicle zipping along a bumpy road at 65 mph.  Didn’t stop me from trying, though. About 1 in 5 turned out. 
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We usually falter when it comes to correctly describing what we’re seeing in the southwestern landscape.  Saying “that thing sticking up out there” or “that crack in the ground” might do the job but that’s a lazy definition.  So I finally looked up some of the terminology of the Arizona landscape:
Plateau---an area of relatively level high ground.
Mesa---a land formation, less extensive than a plateau, having steep walls and a relatively flat top 
Butte---an isolated hill or mountain with steep or precipitous sides usually having a smaller        summit area than a mesa
Canyon---a deep gorge, typically one with a river flowing through it
Arroyo---a small steep-sided watercourse or gulch with a nearly flat floor; usually dry except after heavy rains.                
Wash---A narrow, constricting dry bed of an intermittent stream, as at the bottom of a canyon, typically dry but subject to rapid flow during flash flooding. 
Slot canyon---a narrow canyon, formed by the wear of water rushing through rock. A slot canyon is significantly deeper than it is wide. Some slot canyons can measure less than 1 metre (3 ft) across at the top but drop more than 30 metres (100 ft) to the floor of the canyon.  *Antelope Canyon is a slot canyon.
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Did a little geocaching tonight…found one at the John Wesley Powell Museum.  Originally the cache was outside but was repeatedly vandalized, so the museum agreed to be the keeper of the cache.  Had to go inside, tell the curator that we were geocachers and then we were allowed to see the cache, sign the log book, etc.  We got skunked on the 2nd cache.  According to the coordinates, we were right on it but we just couldn’t find it.  The online log indicates that no one else has found it either. 
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At the first cache site, we looked around the museum a bit…found out there’s a movie about the trip that Major Powell and 9 others made down the Colorado River through a canyon, which became known as the Grand Canyon.  Decided to watch the movie “Ten Who Dared” tonight….made in 1960 by Disney Productions…kind of cheesy by today’s standards.  But we’ve been known to watch cheesy before.    
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This marks the beginning of our trek homeward.  Don’t know if the bikes will come out of the trailer again, playing that by ear.  Going to take our time getting home, exploring along the way.  We’re taking a different route back to Michigan...US 160 East.  Kim isn’t anxious to drive through any more snowstorms, but there’s no guarantees on that.


What does seven sixteenths mean?

Thursday, April 7
The skies cleared up last night and Kim was stargazing again.  He’s still not getting all the equipment to work like it should, which is frustrating him…but he continues to learn along the way.  Tonight there’s a big wind blowing the clouds, so he’s busy packing up his telescope paraphernalia.  Tomorrow we’re moving on, so whatever we can pack up tonight lessens the load tomorrow.   **8:30 p.m. Kim goes out to the truck and comes in saying that it’s calm and clear now.  L
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Slept in again today, not intending to but my body clock didn’t wake me as usual when the sunlight was coming through the ceiling vent window. Maybe because I was burrowed under the covers. J I already know that we’re going to have a real issue getting acclimated back to Michigan time.  Day was sunny and warm, so after a quick bowl of Cheerios, we hit the road.
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Today, we picked out a general area to ride but beyond that we were open to wherever the road took us.  And the first place it took us was past the exit we needed!  Exits off the highway aren’t real plentiful in this area but we managed to get back to exit 292 without going too far out of our way.  Just part of the ride or so I told myself.  Anyway, we headed north on SR 77, which is a well maintained, but not heavily traveled road.  About 30 miles in, we crossed onto the Navajo Reservation.  Because we didn’t have any timetable except to be back at camp before dark, we just wandered with only a vague idea of where we were going.  There were plenty of roads but only a few were paved, so we had to be mindful of how far the next paved intersection was…if not we could find ourselves going miles farther than we intended in a direction that wasn’t leading back to our camp.
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All the open country we rode through today, we didn’t see any wildlife!  Not a pronghorn, not a mule deer, not even a gopher scurrying across the road.  How is that possible?!
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It was interesting to me that there were no housing developments on the reservation. Or at least that none that we saw.  There were homes back off the road…most were solitary homes at the end of a long, long driveway.  If there were several in the same area, it was definitely not a development like we see back home.  And the houses were modest, nothing fancy.  I guess I expected people to be living in little community groupings but that’s not what we saw, with the exception of the Hopi Indian Agency community in Keams Canyon. There are two churches, post office, gas station with an attached café and grocery store and multiple houses in the area.  But it was a small area.  A gentleman at the post office told us that the gas station was the last one for about 85 miles (Tuba City, AZ).   After having lunch at the café, we turned back the way we came for about 10 miles to take another route back to Holbrook.  We passed several of the gas station/café/grocery store combination. There might be larger towns on the reservation but not where we were riding.
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Along one section of the highway on the reservation, there were many shelters with an open front and a bench.  It reminded me of a bus stop shelter.  These shelters were all at the end of long driveways and several had vehicles parked nearby.  So I wonder if this is some kind of reservation transit/car pool system.  I wouldn’t think it was for the school bus because most kids would just drive their vehicles to school instead leaving them by the road while taking the bus.
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As we crossed into the Navajo Nation on  SR 77 today, the mile markers on the right side of the road were in miles and the markers on the left side were in kilometers.  I haven’t been able to find out why. 
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I thought today would be all about the scenery, but then we stopped at a gas station and met Sonia and Popcorn.  That’s right, the guy’s name was Popcorn.  At the station, Kim went inside and I just waited on the bike.  Across the parking lot, I could see a couple sharing a bag of Cheetos.  One of them started saying something at two men by the gas pumps…couldn’t hear what was being said, but I could see that the speaker was being ignored.  The couple stood up and, of course, came in my direction.  They stopped to talk to me…first she mentioned how tired Louie looked and then it was just general ‘where you from, where you going’ stuff.  Yes, I could tell they were both a bit inebriated.  When Kim came out, they again asked where we were from…when Kim said Michigan, the guy became animated and held his hand up, with fingers apart and asked where. J  As I was showing them where on the mitten, Kim was saying that it was close to the bridge to the Upper Peninsula.  This is the direction of the conversation:
Oh, up there, then you’re Canadian.  Do you speak French?  
No, we’re not Canadian but Canada is close to Michigan and you’re right, some Canadians do speak French.  
How about Creole? Do you know Creole? Creole is like French, right?  
You mean, Creole like Louisiana Creole?
Yeah, yeah, what do you know about Louisiana?  
Then, as Popcorn started talking to Kim about his Creole/Navajo background, Sonia started talking to me about her heritage. 
Seven sixteenths Navajo…seven sixteenths.  Do you know what that means?  
Well, seven sixteenths is almost half.  Are you half Navajo?
Yes, seven sixteenths Navajo.  But what does this mean?  Does this mean I’m full Navajo? Or am I Mexican? What does this seven sixteenths mean? 
At this point, I’m just not sure how to respond, but it didn’t matter as she got sidetracked by the Cheetos.  When Kim asked if I was ready to ride, she wiped her hand on her pants to shake my hand. Not any ol’ handshake though…it had 4 parts to it and when the handshake was done, she said This is for the seven sixteenths. Yes, seven sixteenths.’   That’s when we found out her name was Sonia and his name was Popcorn.  She then high fived Louie. When we started the bikes up, they were startled but impressed with the sound and stood there watching us circle the pumps back out to side road.  As we’re waiting to pull out onto the highway, Kim said “Crank it up, that’ll give ‘em a thrill.”   So we ripped through the gears as we headed up the hill, imagining the smiles on their faces. 
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Talked some more tonight with the woman on the Harley trike.  She’s a retired nurse, recently widowed, and besides embarking on this solo trip, is trying her hand at writing fiction.  Hasn’t gotten anything published but that hasn’t stopped her from writing.  She’s on a journey all right.  J

An encounter with 'Chuck and Andy'

Wednesday, April 6
It’s almost 9 a.m. (Arizona time) and I’m the only one awake.  Kim stayed up last night stargazing…I don’t know what time he called it quits but I do know that he brought a bunch of cold into the warm nest I’d made in the blankets.  I woke up at one point and realizing he wasn’t in bed, went out in search of him…luckily he was set up near the trailer.  He encouraged me to come see what he found so I did.  There on his computer screen was Saturn!!  How cool is that?! Then I went back to bed and left him out there trying to find whatever he was trying to find.J
**9:15 a.m.----Kim is now awake and he just told me he went to bed around 4 a.m.  Might be a long day for him!**
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Grand Canyon, Hoover Dam, Lake Havasu City….and so many other touristy places we’ve been, hearing multiple foreign languages being spoken has become the norm.  It almost comes as a surprise when I hear a bit of English in the mix. However, I’ve found that among a group of people rambling on excitedly in a language that I don’t understand, there might be someone who sneaks in some English....maybe with an accent or maybe not, but I hear it in passing.  Kim has talked to people who look blankly back at him, not replying…meaning they probably don’t understand what he’s saying.  He said it’s easy to forget because we’re visiting all these American landmarks, that not everyone speaks or understands English.  In fact, somewhere in our travels, as I was trying to take a selfie of Kim and I, a man approached us, not saying a word but using pantomime to say “Do you want me to take a picture of the both of you?”  When I said, ‘No, but thank you for offering’, he then replied in English.  He must have come to the same realization about not everyone being able to understand English and came up with a work around.  J
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What I realized yesterday is that all the people milling around the corner in Winslow, Arizona, were speaking English. Guess this little piece of American pop culture made popular by a song hasn’t made it onto the map of must see places for foreign visitors. J
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Daytime temps have been in the high 60s to mid-70s. Very nice riding weather, but once the sun goes down, so does the temperature.  That’s why I spend the evenings in the trailer with the heater going.  And to avoid any middle of the night bathroom trips, I’ve learned to be mindful of my liquid intake. We are about as far from the bathroom as a person could get in the park.  Well, there is a closer one but it’s still closed for the season.  The park isn’t very busy right now and the night temps are still dipping into the 30s to 40s, so only the bathroom up by the office is open. Makes for a brisk walk to the bathroom once the sun goes down.
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While the Picacho KOA closes for the summer, I’ve heard that the campgrounds along 40 do a brisk business in the summer because the temperature is more moderate.  It’s that elevation thing again.
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Didn’t get on the road until about noon…made it out of the park and then stopped about ½ mile down the road for lunch.  There is a little café on the corner of the main road that had a bunch of cars in the parking lot…usually a sign that the food appeals to the locals. Because I had the best BLT ever the other day (I didn’t want to tarnish the memory by eating another one so soon), I ordered something new…an ‘Open faced Chili Burger’ which was a hamburger laid out on an open bun covered with a sauce and cheese.  I chose green chili sauce. Overall it was very tasty and not too spicy, although it gave my chapped lips something to complain about.  After lunch, we got on the road for real.
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Observations from the road:
*No matter how firm the air mattress is, if you sit on the corner of it, you’ll lose your balance.
*Not all Caucasians speak or understand English and not all Hispanic/Native Americans speak English with an accent.
*Taking your suitcase out of the car and opening it on the sidewalk so you can rummage through it is guaranteed to embarrass your teenager.
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Today we rode to the Petrified Forest National Park.  In total it was a short ride….79 miles.  We took the scenic route there (Hwy 180) which took us to the Rainbow Forest entrance, rode through the park and then exited by the Painted Desert entrance.  Jumped on US 40 to head back to Holbrook.  The Rainbow Forest visitor’s center had an informative 18 minutes film that gave a quick historical overview of the area and a display that described how Nature made the petrified wood found in the park:  200 million years ago, tree grows next to river…tree dies, falls in river…tree eventually sinks and quickly gets buried under layers of sediment which seals it from decay…silica infiltrates tree and eventually replaces the organic stuff with quartz crystals…tree is petrified/becomes stone.  Erosion of the surrounding layers eventually allows the petrified tree/log to be exposed.  As the land shifts and changes, the weight of the wood causes it to break into smaller pieces.*   I didn’t know what petrified wood was when I entered the park but by the time we exited the park over by the Painted Desert entrance, I was able to recognize it quite easily. 
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Behind the visitor center, there is an area with a lot of chunks of petrified wood and even a log that has broken into sections.  There is a nice walking path so visitors can get out and see the wood.  There is wood in other parts of the park, but not as accessible as at the visitor center.  There were two older gentlemen on the path in front of us and as we got closer, we heard the kind of conversation that happens only between longtime friends or possibly Abbott and Costello.  I thought of them as Chuck and Andy…don’t know why, that’s just the arbitrary names I assigned them.  Chuck had a tiny camera…Andy had a flip phone.  When we came upon them, Andy was instructing Chuck on how to take a proper picture with it.  See this area here?  You can’t put your finger there because that’s where the picture gets taken.  So hold it down here…no, you can’t hold it there.  So hold it just like that, then push the button in the middle.  At this point, Andy is sitting on a rock waiting for Chuck to take the picture.  Chuck is having a hard time seeing the screen with the glare of the sun on it, then says ‘Hey, I see a light’ to which Andy replies Whaddaya mean, you see my wife?  Then after the picture is taken, Andy checks it and mutters, Awww, you cut my head off again.  Chuck offered several times to take our picture with my camera but since this was less of a people picture area and more of a scenery picture area, we declined.  Now I think that maybe we should have taken him up on it just to see how it would have turned out. J We followed them along the path and interacted with them a couple of times before asking where they were from.  We figured somewhere on the East Coast…California was the answer.  Through the conversation, it became apparent that these two had taken other trips together…I can only imagine the conversations and have to wonder how many headless pictures of Andy have been taken.