Saturday, Sept. 22...Done! (The Band Perry)


   Up about 8 a.m. to sunshine, little to no wind, and 50o.  Thought we’d be able to cross but checked the bridge update one last time to make sure.  Website said:  “All Clear, Have a Pleasant Trip!”  Yesss!  Waited for the sun to get a little higher in the sky before leaving and took off about 9:30.  It was a cool-ish ride from the bridge to Petoskey because the road was shaded.  By the time we cleared Petoskey and were in the home stretch, the temperature was rising and the landscape was more open so the sun could provide some warmth.  Even riding along the Lake Michigan shoreline was a piece of cake today. 
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   Sitting in the casino yesterday, my phone rang and I got the happy news that we’re going to have another little Bakker baby in the family.  Marshal and Callie are expecting #4 the end of March, beginning of April.  Yeehaw!  And, so far, there’s only one heartbeat… 😊
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   Arrived home about 11 a.m.  Another Kim n Karen Adventure is officially over.  Bikes and trailer are unpacked…in the process of looking in the pockets of my t-bag to see what all I stashed in them.  Went to town to pick up a bunch of work that accumulated in my absence and Mike Left was here within an hour of our arrival home for a cup of coffee, so life is back to normal just that quick. And that’s not a bad thing.
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Small town of the day:  Charlevoix, Michigan…
No population sign but it’s my game and I’m making an exception to the rule because it’s good to be home!! 😎
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Saturday miles:  66 miles
Total miles:  2,892 miles
 

Friday, Sept. 21...Strange Gravity (Adam Bakker)


Morning musings: 
   Went to bed last night and woke up this morning in line with another time zone…that always happens when heading back east.   My body clock acclimates so much easier going west than coming back east.  It’ll take a few days and maybe some resolve to get back to the sleeping rhythms of Eastern Standard Time…of course, the fact that both of us tend to be night owls might throw a kink into the ‘early to bed, early to rise’ plan we’re hoping to adopt.
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   Fell asleep to the sound and sight of a thunderstorm…woke up to sunshine and a bit of wind.  Checked the forecast and rain is off the screen for now. 
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   There are many songs with reference to ‘home’ in the title that I could have used for today’s post title…we’re only 200 miles from home and plan to get there sometime this afternoon. Homeward Bound (Simon and Garfunkel), Home (Phillip Phillips), Our House (Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young) and Take Me Home Country Roads (John Denver) are just a few that would have been appropriate.  But this title works for my thoughts of the last day or so.
   No matter how anxious I am to get away or how good the time away has been, as soon as we turn our thoughts toward the return trip I feel the pull.  It gets stronger as we get closer to Michigan…it’s like an invisible rope is pulling us toward home.  A horizontal gravitational force of sorts.  Makes perfect sense to me.
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4 p.m. Update: 
  We are currently hanging out with a whole lot of other people at the southbound rest area on the north side of the Mackinac Bridge.  The bridge is partially closed due to high winds up to 50 mph…only empty pickups, passenger cars
and vans are being allowed to cross.  The rest of us are left to wait until the winds calm down.  Bah!!
 
   Stopped at Lehto’s for a pasty then sat in a line of vehicles for over 35 minutes waiting to cross the bridge before we were told to turn around or go to the rest area.  It’s not like there another way over to the other side…😏

   Even though it’s a spectacular sight, watching huge waves crash into the bridge gets old real quick.  Especially when you want to cross that bridge but can’t because the wind causing those waves is what’s keeping you off the bridge.  So I decided to get the computer out and make productive use of my time.
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   At the beginning of this trip, I wrote that I considered the Mac Bridge the Gateway to Adventure but I’m having a hard time finding the adventure in being stuck at the Gateway.  Sixty more miles and we’re home…3.5 miles of water in the Straits of Mackinac is preventing that from happening. Feeling more than a little frustration at watching some people cross while we were turned away.  This would sit better with me if everyone had to wait.  Just sayin…
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4:30 p.m. Update:
   Tired of just sitting around…time to go lose some money at the St. Ignace Casino.

Evening Update:
   Weather was sunny and amazingly warm considering the time of year and the ferocity of the wind.  There are several areas along US 2 where the lakeshore is close to the road.  Been on that section many times before and I know to look for sand on the road.  So I was prepared to be sandblasted by beach sand but I was not expecting the waves to be crashing up and over the rocks to send spray across the road, too.  And bonus! there were times when we got pelted by both sand and water at the same time.  😐 That was a brutal 5 miles or so. 
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  9 p.m….Sitting in a hotel in St. Ignace right now.  Our pockets are a little emptier because of the casino thing and bellies full because we just got back from supper.  We kept checking the bridge website to get updates…still partially closed.  After a couple of hours at the casino, we walked outside to check the wind…still blowing like crazy. 😕 Then we sat outside to discuss our options and all of them involved taking a chance.  What tipped the scales was me getting cold.  It was after 7 o’clock, it was getting dark, the temperature was dropping, and the bridge was still closed.  Time to get a room before there weren’t any to get because they’d be full of stranded people.  One last look at the bridge website…still closed.  Made a call and got a room.  Kim checked the bridge site again while we were eating…it was downgraded to ‘wind escort’.  It gave a list of high profile vehicles being allowed to cross with an escort.  Don’t know whether we’d be able to cross but we’re okay with being in a warm room for the night.  Will get up in the morning and finish our trip.  So I’ve made peace with the fact that the end of the day didn’t end the way we had planned.  End of pity party….

  As of 11 p.m., the bridge has been downgraded to a ‘High Wind Warning’; we should be able to cruise on back home tomorrow morning.  There are big green areas on the radar map right now so it may be a wet ride.  But that pull to get home is so strong….😉
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Small Town of the Day: 
   We encountered plenty of small towns today on US 2…but none had a population sign.  I have no small town of the day.
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Friday miles: 145 miles
Total miles:  2,826 miles

Thursday, Sept. 20...Does Anybody Really Know What Time It Is? (Chicago)


It must be noted that my boots stayed dry yesterday thanks to the lower farings that Kim bought me early summer.  Sure…upper and lower farings make a fashion statement for the bike but they serve a purpose for the rider, too.  Wet boots are nasty…they’re hard to get off, even harder to get back on and it takes forever for them to dry.  With Pegasus, my feet were just open and when it rained, road splash always made my boots wet.   However, the faring protects my floorboard which in turn protects my feet.  And the result of all that is dry tootsies!  Yay!!
**Update:  My boots got wet today but not from road splash.  They actually got rained on today.  
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   We made it!  Our goal today was Escanaba and we did it. Yeehaw!  Back in the upper reaches of the Mitten state!   Started the day riding in the rain…ended the day riding in the dark…throw in hard rain off and on throughout the day and an hour of heavy fog in the late afternoon and it all adds up to eye strain and a mentally fatiguing day.  We were both so ready to get off the road.
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   Usually when cruising down a back country road I like to look around to see what I can see.  Just a quick scan of my surroundings…discover lots of unique photo opportunities that way.  But not today.  When it was raining, my focus was on just keeping myself between the lines on the road. When the rain stopped there was fog to contend with…and when the fog lifted it was time for the deer to be out and about.  No, it just wasn’t a good day to look for photo ops.
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   The bulk of our trip was spent outside of the Eastern Time Zone.  At our farthest point we were in Mountain Time which is 2 hours behind our part of the Mitten.   Kim doesn’t change his watch…if I ask what time it is he’d say something like “It’s 12:30 in real time which means it’s, ahh…10:30 this time.”  I just change my watch because it’s easier to know at a glance instead of doing the math. 
 
 My car and cell phone change automatically when entering another time zone and my laptop can be set to change time zones automatically also.  I wondered about the clock settings on Zeus…I really hadn’t had a need to look into changing them yet.  But we’d be traveling into different time zones so it was something I wanted to figure out.  When we left Ironwood last Tuesday morning I got into the time menu.  Found out that the time zone could be set manually or it could be set for ‘User Time’.  I wasn’t sure what this setting was about and frankly was a little intimidated by it. I thought manually changing it would be best.

  Ironwood is in the Central Time zone…Zeus was still on Eastern Time, his clock said it was 11:34 a.m., which would be 10:34 Central Time. Easy peasy…I’m going to just change it to Central...Hey! it says 9:34, what the hell?!  That ain’t right. Okay so I’m going to change it to User Time to see what that does.  Hope I don’t screw something up.  Okay here goes…I’m thinking it should change to whatever time zone I’m in…What!? It still says 9:34…it should be 10:34…what’s the deal?  There’s got to be something else going on…how do I get it back to the right time?  Oh, come on, it can’t be this hard.  I wonder if this Daylight Saving Time button would make a difference.  Hey, that worked!  I did it! I did it! I figured it out!  From that point on, Zeus’ clock changed automatically as we changed time zones.  👍Yay!
  
   Rapunzel has been the executive director of travel but today I decided to use Biker Girl as my own personal guide.    Rapunzel was still the lead dog but using Biker Girl’s nav screen allowed me to see the map, how many miles until we reached our destination, and what the ETA was.  As a bonus, it told me what song was currently playing. 😊The one thing the nav screen did not indicate is the current time.  Since my watch was buried beneath my jacket and gloves, I had to either switch back to another screen or rely on bank clocks as we rode through various towns.  Not optimal but it’s what I had.  Most of the day I was clueless as to the actual time.
   
   I became curious about Biker Girl’s estimation of our arrival time in Escanaba…what time zone was she using, the time zone of our destination or the time zone that she was actually in?  After lunch she had an ETA of anywhere from 7:04 to 7:15 p.m. depending on our speed, how long we stopped, etc.  When I did the math of how many miles we had left against the difference of the current time and her ETA, it was just not working out.  Throw in the fact that Rapunzel had slightly different numbers for all those factors and it got really confusing as to what time we could expect to arrive in Escanaba.  But Biker Girl had her story and she was sticking to it…she continued to indicate that we were going to arrive at 7:15 p.m. despite the fact that it was past that time in reality.  However, as soon as we passed the Eastern Time Zone sign by Harris, Michigan, she changed her mind and our ETA became 8:15.  So that tells me her estimated time of arrival is according to the time zone she is currently in and not the time zone of the desired destination.  That’s not extremely helpful.😐
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Small Town of the Day:  Glen Flora, Wisconsin…population 92
Today’s route was a small town route.  But there were also a number of little towns that had ‘Unincorporated’ on their signs.  Curious as to what that means so I consulted Google because Kim didn’t know when I asked him.  Wikipedia has this to say:  In law, an unincorporated area is a region of land that is not governed by a local municipal corporation; similarly an unincorporated community is a settlement that is not governed by its own local municipal corporation, but rather is administered as part of larger administrative divisions, such as a township, parish, borough, county, city, canton, state, province or country.
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Thursday miles:  342 miles
Total miles:  2,681 miles

Wednesday, Sept. 19...Who'll Stop the Rain (Creedence Clearwater Revival)


Morning musings:
   Rain on the metal roof woke me up in the middle of the night…real rain on a real metal roof this time.  Not fake pine needle rain on the trailer masquerading as rain.😏 Fell back asleep praying it would stop by morning.  When I woke at 8, I was a bit dismayed to hear what I thought was a gentle rain and my thoughts were off to the races…Oh, man, that means my goggles will get rain spots on ‘em and I won’t be able to see good…maybe I can just wear my glasses and pull down the helmet shield so my glasses won’t get spotted…wait, the shield is tinted, that might make it too dark to see if the sky is dark… we might have to take it slower because I won’t be able to see good…blah, blah, blah.  Then, I crawled out of bed and realized that it HAD stopped raining and the noise I was hearing was simply the fan. Whew!  But the sky is still looking like rain… 
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   Jackson has an Ace Hardware so Kim is off to get some bolts or something.  He’s got one more little tweak he wants to make to the trailer.  The hardware stores have generally been closed when we get into a town at night so this was an opportunity he didn’t want to pass up.
   In the meantime while I’m sitting at the cabin waiting for Kim to return, it starts raining again.  Drat!!  **He returned dripping with water, saying he’d heard that it’s supposed to be raining all the way to Green Bay.  Check the weather radar, stat!  We might be going with Plan B, whatever that is. 😐
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   Yesterday as we cruised into Pipestone, MN, I saw a big sign on the side of a building saying “Welcome to Pipestone…Home of the Peace Pipe” with a picture of a huge peace pipe.  I get on the radio “Hey, I think that means they have a peace pipe somewhere, let’s find it!”  Next block we see a sign for the Pipestone Nat’l Monument with a peace pipe on the sign. “Hey, I think it’s this way because the sign has pipe on it…maybe it’s out at the National Monument.” As we turn on the road for the monument and start down the long drive back to it, I see a sign that looks familiar. “Have we been here before because that Three Maidens sign looks familiar?…but I don’t ever remember seeing this particular monument so probably not.”  Get to the Visitor’s Center which is about to close but a pleasant ranger explains what pipestone is, where the walking trail is, etc.  Then Kim says, “Well, we’re kind of pressed for time…we were looking for a peace pipe…is there one of those here?”  No, but the ranger gave us directions to a large pipe on display just down the road.  As we’re walking back to the bikes, I said to Kim, “That ranger is probably thinking ‘Man, there’s all this natural beauty on display here and they just want to see the dorky peace pipe?’” 😉 As we head out of the driveway, Kim says “Didn’t we see rocks somewhere on a ride that were called The Three Maidens?”  We turn right out of the driveway as directed and soon realize that, yes, we’ve been in Pipestone before, we’ve seen those rocks and we’ve seen the big peace pipe…on the HoneyRide back in 2011.  I’m sure we have a picture of the peace pipe from back then, but yeah, I took another one yesterday just because….
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11 a.m. Morning update:  Plan B
   According to everything we’ve seen on weather radar, Jackson is in the path of a band of rain moving through to the Northeast…pretty much our entire route to the U.P. 😕  So we’ve decided to stay put for the night and plan to get an early start on a fairly ambitious mileage day…all in an effort to make up for the miles lost by spending a day off the road.  If we accomplish that then Friday’s ride home will be considerably shorter.  We’ll see how that goes…
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12 noon update: Plan C
   There’s been a break in the weather for about an hour now, so we’re making a break for it.  If we get 150 miles or so down the road, it’s all good.  Despite wanting to stay off the interstate during this ride, the weather is dictating that we make the best use of our time. Life doesn’t always go according to our plans and there’s no shame in changing as needed.   So we’ll be riding I-90 for a bit.

Evening Update:
   We left a couple of smiley rocks around Jackson, MN, in honor of Deb’s childhood. 👍
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  By 6 p.m. we were in a room in Wabasha, MN, located on the banks of the Mississippi River.  In Jackson, we were still about 715 miles from home.  If we’d stayed another night we would’ve been hard pressed to make our goal of being home by Friday.  Too many miles and not enough time. 😒  By going with Plan C, we are now less than 550 miles from Charlevoix and Friday is looking very doable. 
   When we decided on Plan C, it was during a weather break…soon after we left, it started raining again.  Ugh!! But we were prepared…extra layers for warmth and rain gear to stay dry.   We made almost 200 miles and estimate that only about 50 of those miles were ridden without rain falling on us.  For the first hour the rain was intermittent…more off than on.  About 2:30 it became more on than off.  There was lighter, dare I say, bluish sky toward the horizon and I kept thinking that if we could just outrun the dark cloud we were under, than we’d be in better weather.  And every time it seemed that we were just within reach of the lighter sky area, the road would turn/curve.  Very disheartening but we pressed onward and so did the rain.  By the time we stopped my face was tired of being stung by the raindrops.  But despite all that, we both agreed that leaving when we did was the right decision.
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   Noticed the trailer latch wasn’t looking right as we were rolling down the road.  Turns out it was broken but could be easily fixed with a stop at a hardware store.  Made a stop in Blue Earth where a hardware store was located across the road from the 55 ft. Jolly Green Giant statue…so while Kim worked his magic replacing the latch I went to take pictures of a big green man. 😏  
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Trivia about Blue Earth, MN, as found on a menu at the Hometown Restaurant:
**Blue Earth is named after the Blue Earth River, which was given the Dakota name “Mahka-to” for the blue/black clay surrounding it.
**Blue Earth is the only Blue Earth in the whole United States!
**Claim to fame…Jolly Green giant Statue, which stands at 55.5 feet tall
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Small Town of the Day:  Kellogg, MN…population 456
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Wednesday miles:  195 miles
Total miles:  2,339 miles

Tuesday, Sept. 18...State I'm In (NEEDTOBREATHE)


   When I asked about a cabin last night, the man checking us in said it was supposed to rain so upgrading from a tent might keep us drier.  Good call because it didn’t just rain, it poured!  And the wind came up, too.  I’m not sure if it was the thunder and lightning or the screen door banging open that woke me up.  But at that point we battened down the hatches (screen door and window) and drifted back to sleep with the rain beating down on the roof.  Huge puddles in the parking lot this morning so the rain was substantial. 
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   It was in the high 50’s and sunny when we woke up…felt a bit on the cool side after sleeping in a closed up cabin for the last few hours of the night. 
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   In Monday's journal post I mentioned that we would be stopping Tuesday night in Jackson, MN.  Got a message from Deb Nuttall this morning saying that her family lived in Jackson when she was in 5th grade.   She couldn’t remember the address but remembered that the house was a Cape Cod style and that she loved that house.  I texted that she had about 8 hours to let her memories simmer and to text me any information that surfaced.  She talked to her mom and updated me with a possible address.   We now had a mission when we reached Jackson.   
   Got to Jackson, then plugged the address into Biker Girl…she indicated that the street existed but the house number didn’t.  Oh, well, let’s just take a ride over to Brown St. and see what we find.  First let me Google what a Cape Cod style of house looks like.  
   Brown Street was 3 blocks long…we cruised those 3 blocks several times and additionally cruised around the neighboring streets to see if Brown Street picked up somewhere else.  Talk about feeling conspicuous as we slowly and loudly stalked the neighborhood.  I finally saw a house that looked Cape Cod-ish, took a picture of it and quickly left.  Sent the picture to Deb who thinks we might have hit the jackpot but she’ll check with her mom to confirm. 😊
   We’re here until tomorrow morning so we can do another recon if needed….
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   The bulk of our route today was on SD-34, a state highway through farm country.  Not 10 miles down the road we saw two eagles in a dead tree…had to stop to get pictures.  Then another 30 miles down the road we came across the Big Bend Dam, a hydroelectric plant.  We took the public access road down to the river and watched as pelicans, seagulls, cormorants and maybe a heron or two took advantage of the abundance of fish near the base of the dam.  Couldn’t help myself…took too many pictures of these birds, also. 
   However, there was no information about the dam so I turned to Google to get my need-to-know fix.  Wikipedia has this to say:  Big Bend Dam is a major embankment rolled-earth dam on the Missouri River in Central South DakotaUnited States, creating Lake Sharpe. The dam was constructed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers as part of the Pick-Sloan Plan for Missouri watershed development authorized by the Flood Control Act of 1944. Construction began in 1959 and the embankment was completed in July 1963. Power generation began at the facility in 1964 and the entire complex was completed in 1966 at a total cost of $107 million. The hydroelectric plant generates 493,300 kilowatts of electricity at maximum capacity, with an annual production of 969 million kilowatt hours, and meets peak-hour demand for power within the Missouri River Basin.
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   Signs outside of Wessington Springs, SD, announce that it is the hometown of Kyle Evans, the South Dakota Troubadour.  Neither of us had a clue about him.  The e-edition of the Black Hills Pioneer gave me an overview:  
   Kyle Evans, who was born Kyle Fagerhaug, was killed after a wreck east of Wessington Springs on state Highway 34 late Wednesday, according to the South Dakota Highway Patrol office in Aberdeen.
   His motorcycle struck a deer at about 11:30 p.m., authorities said.  Evans was taken to the Wessington Springs hospital, where he was pronounced dead early Thursday.
   Evans and his band, the Company Cowboys, were popular on the rodeo circuit and had been together more than 30 years. Evans also was a solo recording artist and was the official troubadour for the state's centennial celebration in 1989. He traveled the state and wrote songs about South Dakota.
   His band had performed at the Stampede Rodeo in Mitchell for many years as well.
He was born in 1941 and was 54 at the time of his death.  
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   Another interesting thing about Wessington Springs (population 956) is that it appears to have only two stop signs…one at the end of the City Hall driveway and the second at the intersection of SD-34 and Dakota Avenue.  All other intersections have Yield signs.  People in Wessington Springs must be a courteous bunch. 😎
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   When we travel I like to take pictures of us standing in front of state welcome signs. However, that hasn’t been possible this trip because the back roads we’ve traveled apparently don’t warrant a state sign.  The only indication is a “welcome to ….” greeting from Rapunzel.  It was rather confusing on the trip out because we were in Iowa when we thought we were in Minnesota, then back into Minnesota and then Iowa again before we even knew we weren’t in Minnesota to begin with.  Confusing!   And besides the Rapunzel thing, the only indication we had that we had crossed into South Dakota was that a few miles I realized it didn’t smell like pigs anymore…it smelled like grain.  So today when we cruised past the Minnesota sign, it was an opportunity to practice my U-turn skills and get the picture.  Kim noticed the South Dakota state sign so, first, it was a photo op at the South Dakota sign and then the Minnesota sign.  Then we cruised on into Minnesota, happily knowing which state we were in. 😊
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Small Town of the Day:  Vilas, South Dakota…population 19
Even though it was only about 125 miles into our day when I saw the Vilas sign with the population number, I was 99% sure we had a winner.  And from what I saw, those 19 people had to go to a neighboring town to buy gas, food, clothes, toilet paper, etc.  Vilas has three roads turning off SD-34…first was Vilas Ave A, then came Vilas Ave B and then there was Vilas Street.
I have another Small Town Honorable Mention today:  Fedora, SD gets an Honorable Mention for Best Small Town Name.  I like the name… 😊  
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Tuesday miles:  276 miles
Total miles: 2144 miles
  

Monday, Sept. 17...Diggin' Up Bones (Randy Travis)


   Woke up to clouds but by the time we took off the sun was out and the day was warming up.   This is the day we start heading back home.  Of course, it took us 4 or 5 days to get out here and it’ll probably take the same going home.  I’m big on taking different routes just so I can see something different.  Had to take the time this morning to compare routes, distances, camping options, etc.  Finally made reservations for a camping site at the KOA in Kennebec, SD.  It was 223 miles by I-90…269 miles by a combination of interstate and scenic route to the north of I-90…or 286 miles by an entirely scenic route to the south of I-90.  No contest!...286 miles it is!
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    It was indeed a scenic route.  The majority of it was through farm country again, with the crops being hay, sorghum and sunflowers.  Corn made an appearance as we got closer to Kennebec. The sunflowers have perplexed me every time we’ve encountered a field because they don’t raise their heads to the sun; they droop down.  They looked like a field of corn with their heads down.  I don’t know the ins and outs of sunflowers so I had to stop to look at them; my assessment is that the seeds are making the heads too heavy to lift.  Also each seed has a little flower on it that drops off away easily at being touched.  So maybe it’s getting close to harvest time.  Wouldn't that would be interesting to watch.  
   We also saw two varieties based on the stem or stalk.  One type looked like a basic flower stem with leaves here and there and the other type had so many leaves it looked like it was wearing a floor length dress.  Google has been no help in helping me identify them, but on the other hand I’ve learned that there are about 70 different species of sunflower.  I honestly thought there was only one type so I was all geeked when we saw the second obviously different type this afternoon.  Now I know better, thanks to Google.
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    Riding into Hot Springs, SD and a campground sign caught my attention…The Kemo Sabay Campground. After I sounded it out, I wondered if it has anything to do with the Lone Ranger and Tonto.  My research indicates there’s not a connection; however I did learn that for Lone Ranger purposes the correct spelling is ‘Kemosabe’.  Also The Word Detective site has this to say about it: 
In Navajo, on the other hand, “kemosabe” translates as “soggy shrub.” If this seems an odd thing for faithful friend Tonto to call the Lone Ranger, perhaps he was just repaying the Ranger's long-standing insult. “Tonto,” after all, is a Spanish word meaning “stupid.” 
I have no idea if this information is correct but it now joins the other useless information stored in my head.
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   We took US 385 south out of Custer to Hot Springs, SD, where we had to get on US 18.  As we were following signs and winding our way through town, I saw a sign for The Mammoth Site.  Always looking for something odd and unique to see and knowing nothing about it, I radioed Kim about checking it out.  He was game so we made our way there. 
   Turns out it’s an active paleontological dig site inside a climate controlled building and they give tours. The tour includes: 1. an interesting short movie about how the mammoth bones came to be located there, the history of how the bones were discovered and how the dig is being managed and 2. a guided tour of the dig site.               
   The bones were found when a small hill was being excavated in preparation for a housing development in 1974.  That hill covered a sinkhole that had been filled in with layers of sediment over the course of time.  The bones were discovered in those layers of sediment…other fossils discovered date the sinkhole to the Pleistocene age. So far, 122 tusks have been discovered.  It's assumed that each mammoth would have had 2 tusks and based on the type of tusks found, there have been 58 North American Columbian mammoths and 3 wooly mammoths found to date, all of them young males.  Also a skull of the extinct giant short-faced bear has been found….and recently a femur bone that was thought to belong with the skull has been determined to be too large for that particular bear.  So that means there are at least two giant short-faced bears contained in the sinkhole.  This is exciting news to those at the dig site.  
   Mammoth tusks, femurs, teeth that look like the sole of a tennis sole, skulls, ribs and more are on display right where they were unearthed.  The work is slow and methodical.  There was a volunteer on site today…I watched her using a paintbrush, a spray bottle and a putty knife to carefully scrape off soil which was then saved in a bucket for others to inspect for other types of fossils.  This is not a job for those who require instant gratification in their efforts.
   At the end of the tour, our guide (Colton) indicated some bones that may be moved to storage soon and then said, “Of course, ‘soon’ is relative.  To a paleontologist, soon may mean anywhere from 3 to 5 years.” 😉
   After the tour we were allowed to wander around (on the walkways only) to take pictures, read the informational signs, etc.  Colton did a very good job of explaining the process and describing what we were looking at…some of the bones were obvious but some just didn’t compute for me.  It required looking at the diagrams to figure out what I was seeing because the skeletons weren’t all neatly laid out like in a museum…some were rather jumbled up or even found upside down.  What distinguishes an upside down skull in a rock from a rock is beyond me.
  Stopping at The Mammoth Site was spontaneous and cost us an hour or so in time but it was fascinating and worth it. 
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   We upgraded from a tent site to a cabin when we arrived at the KOA.  It should make for an earlier start in the morning…but then again, maybe not. 😏  And we’ve already decided on a route and made reservations at a KOA in Jackson, MN. 
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Small Town of the Day:  Batesland, SD…population 108
The small town right off the bat to beat was Pringle, SD, which is not far from Custer, with a population of 122.  It also proclaimed with a large ornate sign that it was the Elk Capital of South Dakota.  The elk must not have gotten the memo because there was nary a sight of an elk…however, there were free ranging buffalo along the highway.  Wonder how often one of those beasts wanders into the highway and stops traffic. 
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Monday miles: 291 miles
Total miles:  1,868

Sunday, Sept. 16...Tunnel Vision (Justin Timberlake)


Morning musings:
   The Custer KOA is perched on a tree covered small hill.  As is typical in a campground the roads are gravel.  We were originally slated to be in tent site #9.  As we made our way there I started getting a sinking feeling about the location.  That particular site was down a slight incline surrounded by trees, minor ruts and gravel…no problem for a car or truck, a bit trickier for me on a bike.  I sat there and tried to figure out how I was going to get Zeus to the parking area without tipping over.  Couldn’t see a way, so I consulted Kim and went back to the office to see about a different site. Tent site #12 had electric so we checked that out…it was on a slight slope which wasn’t a problem, but tree roots in addition to gravel and ruts didn’t make my gut feel any better.  Cabin #6 was available so that’s where we ended up.  A cabin costs more but it would be cheaper in the long run if I had less areas of my bike needing attention from the body shop over the winter.  A saddlebag and front fender already need some minor attention due to a spill on gravel a couple of weeks ago.
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   We had the windows open last night because the outside air felt good.  An intermittent sound woke me up, I saw the curtains of the back window flapping and thinking they were making the sound I asked Kim to close the window.  Left the front window open. Wasn’t long before the sound started up again.  Oh, just rain on the metal roof I thought as I drifted back to sleep.   Up at 7 a.m. and when I stepped outside I took a good look around…no evidence of rain, no metal roof, pine trees weren’t close enough to drop pine cones and besides there weren’t many pine cones on the ground.  What was making that sound last night?  I mentioned the mystery to Kim and he suggested maybe it was pine needles. Pine needles?  Really? They’re heavy enough to make a noise when they hit the ground?  There were some on top of the bike trailer so he picked them up and let ‘em fall back down.  Sure enough that was the sound.  So maybe they don’t make a noise when hitting the ground but they sure do when they hit the top of a metal covered trailer. 😏
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   Sun was just breaking through the trees when we got up at 7…looking to be a good day to ride. Camp was fairly quiet when we walked to the bathroom so we’ll have breakfast before heading out.
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   One reason we wanted to come out to Custer State Park was to see the buffalo, realizing there’s never any guarantee on that.  Someone along our travels had told us that the annual roundup of the park herd had started so they might not be out and about.  I hope there’s still some wandering around….
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Evening update:
   On the road to Custer State Park before 10 a.m.  Because the camp is surrounded by trees, it was a bit cool for riding when we woke up. Waited a couple of hours for the sun to work its magic; then it was time to hit the road.
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   Well, the information about the buffalo herd roundup making the buffalo scarce was a bit erroneous.  We saw plenty of buffalo…three or four off by themselves, several groups of 4 or 5, and there were a couple of herds that must have numbered in the hundreds each. I stopped to take a picture of a buffalo on our side of the road. He acted like he wanted to cross the road but was unsure of my intentions so I just stayed put.  I didn’t want to move ahead, have him panic and turn into one of us.  We’d lose, for sure.  So we waited it out and sure enough he ambled up to and across the road. 
   Every buffalo that was close enough to the road for me to see distinctly had flies buzzing around their heads, especially about their eyes.  And the animals really can’t do much to discourage the annoying little buggers…a flick of the tail now and again but that’s about it.  Also I’m assuming buffaloes smell nasty.  But I’ll never know because I’m not about to get close enough to prove that assumption right or wrong.
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   Got some information about the buffalo roundup from Bill, a volunteer at the Wildlife Station Visitor Center. The maximum number of buffalo allowed in the park herd is 1500, so they do a roundup near the end of September strictly for getting a head count. The herd is culled down to about 900 for the winter season. They look at the total number of buffalo and the total of each sex and age, then determine which ones to keep and which ones to send to auction. Hopefully what amounts to an educated guess will keep the herd numbers under the maximum allowed after the spring calving season.  Those that make the cut and remain in the park are not corralled over the winter.  They roam freely throughout the park in the winter just as they do the rest of the year.  Those that don’t make the cut are sent to public auction where anyone can bid on them. Some buffalo are bought by other parks to increase their herds or maybe start a herd…some are bought by meat processing plants who then sell the meat to restaurants and grocery stores…some are bought by individuals who fatten them up to butcher just as you would a cow.  It’s be interesting to know how much a buffalo generally goes for at auction.  
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   This morning we stopped in Custer so I could get a picture of a very unique motorcycle; Kim stayed on his bike.  I went into a store and when I came out Kim was on his bike posing for a picture for some random lady whose husband was waiting patiently on the sidewalk. Interesting. Seems the lady approached Kim and in her accented English said that she has taken pictures of lots of motorcycles but she has never seen a rider sitting on one…she wondered if she could take a picture of him sitting on his bike. Kim obliged her.  So when this German sounding lady shows her friends all the wonderful bikes she saw on her trip to South Dakota, Kim will be in the slideshow in all his bad ass glory. 😊
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   We hit the Big 3 in Custer State Park…the Wildlife Loop, the Iron Mountain Road, and the Needles Highway.  We were gone about 8 hours and most of that time was spent on roads where the speed limit was posted at 25 or below.  I’ve been through the park several times, both in a car and on a bike, so I’m fully aware of what the roads are like. I was riding lead most of the way; not at all a position I’m comfortable with especially on twisty hilly roads.  As a result of the Great Crash of 2010, I find I can’t ride twisties as fast as most bikers...that’s just how it is for me.  I do feel a bit self-conscious and a certain empathy for those caught behind me when I’m in the lead in those conditions.  But Kim insisted I lead. Bah!! Anyway, most of the ride today was outside my comfort zone in that area…10 mph hairpin turns, the Pigtail Bridges on Iron Mountain Rd., and lots of twisties in general.  Throw in the up and down of the hills and it’s no wonder my shoulders and neck were all tensed up and tight by the time we got back to camp.  Despite all that, it was still a good ride.
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   The Wildlife Loop is where the buffalo are typically seen…as are prairie dogs, pronghorn and the occasional elk. The terrain varies from hilly forested areas to open meadows. 
  The Iron Mountain Road has 3 one-lane tunnels, two of which present a view of Mt. Rushmore.  Who gets the right of way is a matter of courtesy…but honk your horn first to let opposing traffic know you’re coming. Traffic was light today but the majority of it was motorcycles. The Pigtail Bridge is also located on Iron Mountain Road. The road spirals just like the name implies employing a bridge to facilitate the spiral.  It’s a true engineering marvel and interesting to ride.
   The Needles Highway, known for its rock spires, has several one-lane tunnels also.  And these tunnels have specific measurements which are clearly posted…approaching one of the tunnels we encountered a motorhome which was clearly too big to go through the tunnel.  I thought it was stopped but Kim said it was slowly backing down the hill.  That’s gonna take some fortitude, skill and time. 
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Family photo at the Heads
   I planned our route through the park in a way that we could stop at Mt. Rushmore in between Iron Mountain Road and Needles Highway.  There was some highway driving in there so it gave me a break from the twisties and we could stretch our legs walking in to see the Heads.  A required stop for us even though nothing has changed…Mt. Rushmore is still 4 heads carved into a rock. 😉
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Small Town of the Day:  Custer, South Dakota…population 1,860
It’s a larger population than the last several winners but Custer was the only town we went through today so …and there happened to be a population sign on the far side of town so perhaps by default Custer is today’s winner.  Custer has life-size painted buffalo placed throughout the town, mostly on downtown street corners.  Very creatively done, too.
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Sunday miles:  100 miles
Total miles: 1,577 miles

Saturday, Sept. 15...Anticipation (Carly Simon)


Morning musings:
   In an effort to not be the camper that irritated me yesterday morning, I am sitting quietly in the tent typing.  We’re going to head westward today but its only 7 a.m. and not quite time to break camp.  Realized when we left our tent this morning that new campers came in late last night…they were respectful of the fact that other campers were sleeping and set up quietly. So we’re waiting until they peek their heads out before we get serious about packing up.  While we could break camp quietly, our departure on two motorcycles would be noticed.😜
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   Woke up just before 7 a.m. to a light drizzle…the kind where you wonder if there’s really anything coming down until you step outside the tent and verify that yes, something wet is falling from the sky.  To find the bright side I could say ‘Well, at least it’s not snow!’  Temperature didn’t feel too bad…no worse than yesterday so I’m guessing in the mid-50’s, maybe higher.  Phones have proven to be a little confused about the weather here at camp so they don’t provide any more information than just stepping outside does.  However, we’ve heard that it’s supposed to warm up again…like in the 90’s warm. It’s only 8 a.m., so there’s plenty of time for that to happen. J
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  We’re camped just a short walk from the bathroom, which we prefer.  Yesterday the cleaning crew was in there for over 3 hours…we had to walk up to the office to use the facilities there, not convenient but doable.  When we got back from our ride-about yesterday, Kim headed right to the bathroom and came right back reporting that the bathroom was locked up and closed for the season.  WHAT?! No bathroom??  There are still people camping out here!  The campground closes in two weeks and they couldn’t wait?  But I immediately came up with a workable plan in case a need arose in the middle of the night…there’s a picnic table 12 feet from our tent and it could be put into play under the cover of darkness.  😏 
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Evening Update:
   Had about a 2 hour ride to the Black Hills area of South Dakota…it was cloudy and hovering at a humid 70o until we got to Hill City. Then the sun came out and the temperature shot up into the humid 80’s.
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   There is so much to do and see in this area.  We’ve been out here several times and there are key places we want to visit that we’ve seen before.  Sort of like re-reading a favorite book.  Riding through Custer State Park, visiting the Crazy Horse Memorial and standing in awe of the Heads are all on our must-do list.  Anything else we fit in will just be bonus material.    
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   We ate lunch in Hill City then continued on toward the town of Custer, where we had reservations at the Custer KOA.  When we realized that the Crazy Horse Memorial was on the way, we pulled in.  Kim is not as taken with the Crazy Horse carving as I am…in the 3 times we’ve been here in the last 7 years, he doesn’t think there’s been any progress.   I first visited Crazy Horse back in 1992…there was only a very rough outline of his face at that time.  His face and forehead are fully now visible. The space between his outstretched arm and the horse’s head has also been opened up.  Currently progress is being made in the blasting away of the mountain so the details of his body, arm and horse can be chiseled from the rock, same as it was for his head/face.  I can line up the pictures I’ve taken over the years and there will be some subtle evidence of progress but in this day of instant gratification, people expect to see the progress from day to day. Blasting away a mountain to reveal the figure within is slow work, especially when it’s being privately funded not government funded.  I’m sure those doing the work up on the mountain cringe when they hear people say that it doesn’t look any different than it did 5 years ago.  Anyway, the Crazy Horse Memorial fascinates me because it’s being actively carved/worked on during my lifetime…Mt. Rushmore was a done deal long before I was born so I have only seen the finished product.  It would have been fascinating to watch the Heads being carved also.  Carving a mountain takes time and I don’t think Crazy Horse will be completed in my lifetime but I’ll continue to visit whenever I’m in the area.
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    A real highlight of the afternoon started when we got back to our bikes in the Crazy Horse parking lot.  A family from India (dad, mom, 3 year old daughter and mom’s sister) arrived at the car parked next to us just after we reached our bikes. The little girl noticed Moxie on the back of Zeus, then Bendy Man on the mirror and smiling, she couldn’t take her eyes off me as she was buckled into her car seat.  Since I was wearing my helmet I can’t discount the fact that maybe she thought I was a friendly alien of some sort.  We both saw an opportunity to give away one of the Beanie Babies we carry with us so Kim asked if it was okay.  In the meantime, Dad wanted to take a picture of Bendy Man on my mirror and as I was talking to him I became aware that the mom, sister and Kim were all back over by his bike and just that quick, mom was wearing Kim’s vest and the sister was taking her picture.  Then Kim offered to let her sit on the bike…by that time we were all snapping pictures because she was so excited. Then the sister wanted to pose with Kim and then both of us and suddenly the mom was in the picture, too.  As soon as they got a signal, I’m sure some of those pictures hit social media. 😉We talked with them for a bit…they were curious:  how long have I been riding, where do we stay at night, are we ever scared of other bikers, were our bikes Harley Davidsons and finally does Kim wear that knife on his belt for protection.  He explained his affinity for sharp things and that no, he normally doesn’t wear one on his belt but that he usually carries one in his pocket.  They introduced themselves and all I caught for sure was Siri, the little girl’s name and the sister’s name sounded like Bono…of U2 fame, although I’m sure it isn’t spelled the same.   
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   This area is crazy busy with motorcycle traffic.  Can’t imagine what it would be like during the Sturgis bike week.
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   Wandered around the gift shop at the memorial and came across Randy Price, an artist who turns coins into unique jewelry using only a jeweler’s saw.  When I asked how long he’s been doing this kind of work, he said that he took a class years back and from that point it was a matter of just doing it to get better.  With a smile, he then said he’ll be there soon, that he’s invested 42 years in getting better. 😊  I bought a necklace and of course, I asked if I could take his picture. He sat down at his work table, grabbed his saw and the necklace then posed like he’s had his picture taken a time or two.  The cut coin jewelry available at the memorial is created solely by Randy and he donates a portion of what he earns to the Crazy Horse project.

And in case there's any question about legality, InVogueJewelry.blogspot.com references the following regulation from the U.S. Mint:
Section 331 of Title 18 of the United States code provides criminal penalties for anyone who fraudulently alters, defaces, mutilates impairs, diminishes, falsifies, scales, or lightens any of the coins coined at the Mints of the United States. This statute means that you may be violating the law if you change the appearance of the coin and fraudulently represent it to be other than the altered coin that it is. As a matter of policy, the Mint does not promote coloring, plating or altering U.S. coinage: however, there are no sanctions against such activity absent fraudulent intent. (This was information was also on display at Randy’s work area.)

The InVogueJewelry blog goes on with this explanation:  So what this is saying is that it's illegal to alter coins for the intention of defrauding someone; for example, making a quarter look like a dollar, or changing the date on an old coin to one that is more rare and valuable.  And there are no sanctions against coloring, plating or altering U.S. coinage. 
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Small Town of the Day:  Hill City…population 948
Hill City is sort of a default winner because it is the only town/city we encountered today that had a population sign.  Our route from Interior to the Black Hills area was along SD-44 again and there were no towns until we hit the outer limits of Rapid City.
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Saturday miles: 124 miles
Total miles:  1,477